Salvia 'Mystic Spires Blue' - A Question of Hardiness
Salvia ‘Mystic Spires Blue’ is a gorgeous example of its genus and a true ornamental garden treasure. It was also proving to be hardy in my own zone 5B/6A garden. Until it wasn’t.
How do you like your crow? I like mine roasted, with garlic and oregano. (I’m kidding. I don’t eat animals of any kind. Ever. I’m a vegetarian, and an eater of pastry.) But I do make stupid mistakes. Frequently. And sometimes, I’ve gotta eat my words…
In my article of last month, “Late Winter Pruning in the Midwest,” I laid out my pruning regimen for a number of the plants I’ve got growing in my garden here in hardiness zone 5B/6A. One of the plants I referenced in the article was my Mystic Spires Blue salvia (Salvia x ‘Balsalmisp’). In addition to the pruning techniques I applied to this plant (and my other salvias, as well), I explained the fact that the Mystic Spires Blue salvia, more often than not, is rated as hardy in regions no colder than zone 7. I went on to explain that by pruning it to a height of about 12″, and heavily mulching it in during the late fall, I’d been able to keep it happy and healthy in my colder-than-recommended garden. But after making it through two 5B/6A winters, the plant’s winning streak, I’m convinced, is now broken. You’ll see a few close-up shots of its current state in just a bit. And once you do, I think you’ll agree with my assessment.
I’m writing about this situation now because I don’t want any of you zone 6 (or colder) readers and subscribers to rush out and buy this plant and stick it in the ground because your old pal Johnny Boy, right here on The Renaissance Garden Guy, said it was ok to do it. Based on what I’m now seeing with this plant, I’m pretty sure that I got lucky the last two years. And I think that, right here, it’s important for me to make three points. The first concerns the fact that I purchased my salvia Mystic Spires Blue from a local nursery where it was sold as a “perennial.” Typically, a bricks and mortar nursery won’t sell a plant as a perennial if it’s not hardy in the facility’s immediate vicinity. So I bit. The second point I want to make is that my research turned up two different online sources that rated the plant as hardy to zone 6 (although dozens more rated the plant as hardy only down to zone 7 – stupid me). My third and final point concerns the fact that it truly must have been the cold that killed this plant. All growing conditions were ideal. Soil and moisture? Check. Sunlight? Check. No damage from grazing critters? Check. It’s unlikely that anything but the cold weather (and my own stupidity – don’t forget my stupidity*) is responsible for the demise of this plant.
*You might remember, from the March pruning article, that this plant’s resonant blue flowers hooked me and I simply had to have it, regardless of its winter survival capabilities. Lapses in self-restraint like this are typically not without their consequences. Insufficiently cold-hardy plants dying in zone 6 during the winter is one such consequence, and drinking something like 3 gallons of scotch at my sister’s wedding and passing out on top of a lid-down toilet in my Pierre Cardin tux is another. Make no mistake, my gardening chums, self-restraint in all matters is indeed the name of the game.
The main takeaway here, for those of you gardening in zone 6 and below, is that pruning the plant properly (by this I mean leaving enough stem length in place to prevent freezing, penetrating moisture from reaching down to the root crown level), and mulching the hell out of it in late fall – all of which I discussed in the March article – might buy you a winter or two. But in the end, the sub-zone 7 temperatures are going to get it. I’m officially going on the record, right here and now, and stating that the Salvia Mystic Spires Blue is hardy only down to zone 7.
Take Care of Your Salvia
It might not be hardy in zone 6 and colder, but the Salvia Mystic Spires Blue is still a beautiful plant that’s well worth growing. If you’re in zones 7 through 10, you’re in luck. It’ll provide you with years of beauty and a lot of awesome blue-ness. If you’re in zone 6 or below, treat it as an annual. It’s a fabulous plant, and having it for one summer is better than not having it at all. In either case, here’s some info for you so you can effectively grow these guys. I’ll include the pruning info from my March article for those of you who haven’t read it. Here you go…
The basics.
Height – 24″-36″. Spread – 24″ -36″. Light – full sun. Bloom color – blue. Bloom time – June through early fall. Foliage – rich, leafy, darkish green with blue flower stalks; herbaceous. Hardiness – zones 7-10. Growth rate – medium to fast. Pollinators – bees, butterflies, hummingbirds.
Notes from the field.
As you now know, the Salvia Mystic Spires Blue is not hardy in zones colder than 7. Use the info here to grow it as an annual in colder zones, or to keep it happy for years to come in zones 7-10. This hybrid cultivar is a robust grower, but it gets along well with nearby plants. From the time it began sprouting from its basal stems (approximately mid April in the years before its cold-induced demise), to mid June, my plant put on at least 12″-18″ of growth, and had begun blooming fairly profusely. And it continued to grow and bloom into late September. It required virtually no special care at all during the spring, summer, and early fall.
Suggestions for planting Salvia Mystic Spires Blue.
If you get a potted plant from a nursery, plant it as soon as you get it. If you’re going to grow it as an annual, it makes little sense to try to grow the Salvia Mystic Spires Blue from seed. In zones 6 or colder, get yourself a healthy, potted specimen (typically available in mid spring in zones 5/6) and get it in the ground as soon as you bring it home, so you can start enjoying its beauty right away. In warmer zones, you can plant a potted specimen, or you can grow these plants from seed by either direct sowing, or starting them indoors, hardening them off, then planting the viable seedlings. I’ve read all sorts of different direct sowing recommendations for all sorts of salvias. Many of those recommendations are contradictory. I’d suggest following the directions on the seed packet (if that’s the way you end up coming by your seeds). If you’re planning to start your seeds indoors, a good rule of thumb is to do it 2-3 months before your area’s final frost is expected.
Soil. My Salvia Mystic Spires Blue grew very well in a slightly acidic (pH of around 6.7 or 6.8), well-drained soil. My research tells me that these plants can tolerate soil pH levels a few ticks north or south of 7.0. So neutral, slightly acidic, or slightly alkaline is good. Mine did great in its slightly-acidic milieu. The critical soil requirement is good drainage. These plants will die if their roots stew in soggy, wet, poorly-drained soil.
Water. These guys don’t need tons of watering to be happy. Obviously, while they’re establishing, they’ll need more regular watering (one or two semi-heavy soakings per week – if their soil is well-drained like it’s supposed to be – should be enough while they become established). Once they’re established, however, they’re remarkably drought-tolerant.
Pruning and/or deadheading. During the blooming season, I cut dead/spent flower stalks down and kept my plant blooming throughout late spring, summer, and early fall. The plant gets just a little bit sloppy later in the summer and the leaf stems want to flop just a bit. Although I never cut my Mystic Spires Blue’s leaf stems back at all during the summer, this plant can definitely be pruned back to its basal foliage in order to keep it neater and more compact. As far as late fall and late winter pruning go, I’ll quote my article of this past March. This is the methodology I use for all of my salvias:
“Salvias are an herbaceous perennial that love a late winter pruning here in the Midwest. It’s usually a good idea to leave the dead stems intact (or largely intact – about 12″ of stem) through the fall and coldest months of winter. This is because salvia stems … are hollow, and pruning a particular plant too close to the ground in the fall could result in freezing moisture within its stems’ hollow centers damaging the plant’s root crown when winter hits its most extreme temperatures. In late winter, after the danger of extreme, sustained cold has passed, go ahead and prune your salvias down to within a few inches of the root crown.”
Companion planting. Remember, this plant can get 2′-3′ tall and wide, and it can flop. Nevertheless, it gets along surprisingly well with nearby plants. My Salvia Mystic Spires Blue grew beautifully in relatively close proximity to shasta daisies, another salvia cultivar, and iberis. And as I’ve said, I never had to cut it back in deference to nearby plants. Although I personally only grew one Mystic Spires Blue, I often imagined what a drift of several of them might look like. Those blue flowers are amazing, and I believe that a whole mess of them inking up the landscape would be a sight to behold.
Feeding. Salvias benefit from a good feeding of a high quality organic plant food. I love Espoma’s line of organic fertilizers. Plant-tone is the one I use for the majority of the flowering plants in my garden. It’s got an N-P-K ratio of 5-3-3 and is a great all-purpose organic fertilizer. It works perfectly for plants like corydalis, viola, dianthus, shasta daisies, primroses, and of course, salvias, to name just a few. It’s perfectly formulated and ideally suited for use on virtually all flowering plants. Feed your Salvia Mystic Spires Blue according to Espoma’s directions, and neither you, nor your salvia, can go wrong. I gave much of my garden a good dose of Espoma Plant-tone in early April, and my plants are coming on like crazy. The plants in my garden love this stuff, and so do I. Conveniently order Espoma Plant-tone here, directly from Amazon, by clicking the Amazon #advertisement link.
A Couple More Product Recs for You…
I bought this Luster Leaf Rapitest 4-way soil analysis meter in February of 2022 and have since used it successfully again and again to test for soil fertility and pH levels. It also measures sunlight and soil moisture levels. It’s fast, easy to use, convenient, and accurate. By using this device, I’ve been able to determine the necessity of appropriate fertilizer applications and pH amending to the soil of a large number of the plants in my garden. Order it here conveniently, from Amazon. Note that this unit doesn’t test for iron levels in soil. Also note that I really love this little meter! (Featured right here in this #advertisement link is a 2-pack. It’s good to have a backup in case you step on one of them. Trust me, it happens.)
Immediately below, you’ll find three links to three different types of Fiskars pruners. I’ve got six or seven different Fiskars pruning/cutting products. They are super-sharp (and they stay that way), incredibly powerful, totally reliable, and easy to see (that bright orange really sticks out when they’re laying in a pile of dirt). And their durability is legendary. They’re the only pruning and cutting implements I use. Click on any of the three #advertisement links below to learn more, or to order them right here, conveniently from Amazon.
For Further Reading
Please feel free to check out the links in the following reading list for more information on the genus Salvia, and on the beautiful Salvia Mystic Spires Blue.
“Mystic Spires Blue Salvia, Salvia x ‘Balsalmisp’.” Monrovia
“Salvia ‘Balsalmisp’ MYSTIC SPIRES BLUE.” Missouri Botanical Garden’s Plant Finder
“Salvia ‘Mystic Spires Blue’ (Sage).” Gardenia.net
“Late Winter Pruning in the Midwest.” The Renaissance Garden Guy
Happy Trails, Gang!
So, I had to eat some crow on this one. I bought a salvia when I shouldn’t have, and my short-term success with it inflated my ego to the point that I ran my mouth about how great I was at keeping a zone 7 plant alive in zone 6. Sure turned around and bit me, didn’t it?
Well, at least you know now that you shouldn’t try to grow the Salvia Mystic Spires Blue as a perennial unless you live in zones 7-10. And you also know how to care for it, whether you’re growing it as a perennial in one of those very zones, or treating it as an annual in chillier climes. I’ve also given you some excellent product recs. (I use every one of these products and I love them. I wouldn’t recommend them to you if I didn’t.)
I’ll leave you with the following pearls of wisdom: Always remember to curb your enthusiasm and practice at least a modicum of self-restraint. Pretty flowers and a lot of scotch might look good to you right now, but finding a bunch of frozen, dead plants in the morning, or coming to on some toilet still decked out in last night’s formal wear are both shitty ways to start the day.
Thanks for sticking around, gang. As always, I’m dearly grateful.
Cheers, and Happy Gardening!
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I recommend eating a ‘vegetarian crow.’ Think of a pile of blueberries arranged in the shape of a crow- with lots of whipped cream on top. 🙂
Blessings
I can’t think of many things better than a blueberry crow with a bunch of whipped cream on it, except maybe two blueberry crows with a bunch of whipped cream on them!
I can’t think of too many things better than a crow-shaped pile of blueberries with a bunch of whipped cream on it, except maybe two crow-shaped piles of blueberries with a bunch of whipped cream on them!
This is a special article… very funny, interesting and informative.., so sorry that you lost your salvia… I guess sometimes even with all the love and attention you provide to your lovely plants, it still can happen that you lose one …. Can’t wait to see what you are going to plant next 🙏🙏🙏❤️🌸🌼🌺
Thank you, Roxxy, for reading the article. I appreciate always your interest and kindness. That particular salvia is beautiful, but hardy only down to zone 7. My garden is in a colder zone. I was fortunate to get a few years out of it. Incidentally, when I was removing it yesterday in order to replace it with a much more hardy variety, I noticed a couple of little green nodes on the crown (they were slightly below the soil level). So I placed it in a pot and am hoping for the best. It might just live to fight another day! Thanks again Roxxy!
Sorry you lost your salvia. Living in KY my zone is 6. Loved your article.
Thank you, Sharon, for reading the article, and for your kind words. I’m glad I was able to keep it alive for a few years. I will mention and interesting development. When I dug it up a couple of days ago in order to replace it with a much more hardy variety, I found a couple of green nodes sprouting from its crown, which was just below the soil level. I put it in a pot to see if it’ll make it back for another season. I was amazed. You can grow these as an annual for sure in Kentucky, and you may even get a few years out of it if you really protect it over the winter, as I did with mine. If you decide to try growing one, please let me know how it works out. Thanks once again, Sharon!
John, I’m sorry you lost your salvia but you should be proud that it did survive for two years. It made it that long because of all the special care you gave it. Keep up the great work and leave the scotch behind!
Thank you, Kevin – I really appreciate that. I definitely do my best. And good call on the scotch!
John,
Since I am not a garden guy and have an empty window box about 5 feet in length, I think it would be best to put potted plants, maybe 5 or 6, in that empty space. Rain and occasional sprinkling is all that needs be done. What kind of plant grows with hanging leaves or vines as well as blooming throughout spring and summer? Colorful would be great.
Thank you for reading the article, Paul. I really appreciate it. Regarding your question, the answer depends on a few things. One consideration is hardiness. If you want perennials, there are a number of colorful choices. There are a number of small clematis vines that would fit the bill. If you don’t require perennials, there are many, many choices, including bougainvillea, Creeping Jenny, Carolina jasmine, mandevilla, etc, etc, etc. Lots of choices, for sure. You may want to Google both “flowering perennial vines” and “flowering annual/tropical vines.” You can get lots of info that way. Thanks again, Paul!
Another witty and charming post. Your articles are enjoyable for gardeners and non-gardeners alike.
I thank you very kindly, Rick. I do appreciate that. And, of course, I thank you for reading the article. As always, I’m grateful for your kindness and interest.
That is HILARIOUS… and informative!
Glad you liked it, Mary – thank you!