How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One

How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks in the Garden – Part One: Identifying Your Pest and His or Her Habits

How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks in the Garden - Part One: Identifying Your Pest and His or Her Habits

Unknown critters digging little tunnels all over your garden?  In “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks One,” you’ll learn how to identify the culprits by their appearance and habits, and by the architecture of the tunnels you find in and under the soil of your garden.

I like to think of my garden as a sanctuary.  When I am in my garden, the sense of beauty and tranquility is transporting.  This is a place apart from the rest of the world.  In my garden, each of the living creatures which calls it home – pollinators of every form and feather, toads, frogs, and more – enjoys a joyful kinship with the other, and with the plants which grow here.  These are cheerful, peaceable neighbors.  I am humbled and honored to enter this little realm as a welcomed and respectful guest.  The morning sunlight often finds me here, among the denizens of this harmonious kingdom, and I am simultaneously calmed and elated.

A morning stroll through this idyllic world, for me, is as bracing as it is soothing.  It serves as a preparatory respite, a centering tonic, in which to indulge in anticipation of another busy summer day…  

So, nothing turns the taste of my coffee to crap faster than finding that some uninvited burrowing mammal – specifically a mole, vole and/or chipmunk – has been having a party in my garden.

Let me tell you a little story…

Starting a few weeks ago, I’d been watching and addressing the damage that a mole was creating in three of my planting features.  This damage was occurring in one feature which was heavily mulched and lined with weed barrier, and in two additional features which were covered  with mulch alone.  The presence of landscaping mulch can distort and obscure (and in many cases encourage) the damage that a mammalian burrower can cause, making it tough to identify the particular brand of culprit.  A combination of mulch and weed barrier can make this identification even harder.  I’ll get into this topic a bit later in this post.  To paraphrase here, I knew I was dealing with a mole for a few different reasons (again, all discussed a bit later).  I named this mole Larry.  By implementing a repelling strategy, I was ultimately able to drive Larry to the surface and nab him with a plastic food container and its lid while he was outside the entrance to one of his tunnels.  Amazingly, I was actually able to watch the surface of the mulched ground shift and heave as he made his way out of his tunnel.  Note:  I DO NOT recommend catching any burrowing garden mammal with bare hands alone.  Moles, voles, and chipmunks all can and will bite in order to defend themselves.  I safely and humanely moved Larry to a location far from anyone’s home, in the woods, and released him there.

Larry’s story, in addition to possessing all of the thrilling elements of a New York Times Bestseller, begs some critical questions with respect to the info I want to relay in this  three-part post.  How did I know that the effects of Larry’s burrowing/tunneling activities could indeed be attributed to a mole?  What kind of repelling techniques did I use to eventually drive Larry out of the ground?  How did I repair the damage to my garden that Larry’s digging caused?  How did I even know that Larry is actually a mole?  All of these questions, along with many more, will be answered, to the best of my gardening novice’s ability, in this and the subsequent two parts of this article.   

How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
Larry the mole, safely on his way to his new home.

There’s a lot to take into consideration once you realize that you’ve got assertive little garden intruders making their own plans for your garden.  It’s important to determine exactly who’s trashing your garden so you can take the appropriate steps toward initiating and following through with the correct eviction process.  In this, Part One of “How to Deal With Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks in the Garden,” I’m going to be talking about just those three types of pesty little creature – moles, voles, and chipmunks – and identifying each of them respectively by his or her actual anatomical appearance, and also by the appearance and characteristics of the actual tunnels/burrows themselves (and the resulting corresponding damage) which each of these animals respectively create in the garden.  I’ll also talk a little bit about each creature’s individual general behavior/activity patterns and eating habits.  In other words, here in Part One, we’ll review what they look like, what they do, and what their messes look like.

Repellex Mole & Gopher Repellent.  The top pick in my “The 10 Best Burrowing Animal Repellents” article of 2021.  This stuff works like a charm at keeping moles, voles, chipmunks, and other tunneling critters from digging in your garden’s dirt.  Its knockout punch: a 20% concentration of castor oil, which is the kryptonite of the burrowing mammal world.  Plus, it’s loaded with a laundry list of other goodies that little diggers find offensive.  To learn more about this excellent product, or to order it here, directly from Amazon, please click the #advertisement link.  After reading about these critters here in “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks One,” you’ll see why keeping this product on hand is an excellent idea.

Repellex Mole & Gopher Repellent

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My own 24-pound bucket of Repellex Mole & Gopher Repellent. This amazing product is incredibly effective at preventing the tunneling activities of moles, voles, and chipmunks.

How to Tell Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Apart by Appearance and General Behavior

Our house is situated on a large, heavily wooded lot.  Since the forest provides a great natural habitat for moles, voles, and chipmunks, we’ve got all of them in close proximity to our garden.  And wouldn’t you know it?  I hit the trifecta!  That’s right, I’ve got all three types of these animals living in my garden.  But hey, this bit of good luck does allow me the luxury of giving you a firsthand, blow-by-blow analysis of how these guys (and gals) differ from each other in terms of taxonomy and appearance, and diet and general behavior. (Gotta look for the silver lining, right?)

How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
Eastern mole (Scalopus aquaticus). Stock photo.
Meadow vole (Microtus pennsylvanicus). Stock photo.
Eastern chipmunk (Tamias striatus). Stock photo.

Moles.  Moles are prevalent where we live, here on the northeastern Indiana/southwestern Michigan border.  The most common species in our location is the eastern mole (Scalopus aquaticus).  The eastern mole belongs to the family Talpidae, a group of small, digging insectivorous mammals.  I’m pretty sure Larry is an eastern mole, as are the rest of his mole buddies that stalk our little piece of earth.  For the purposes of our mole discussion here, it’s always the eastern mole to which I’ll be referring, and I’ll be using the terms “mole” and “eastern mole” interchangeably.

  • Size, general appearance, and basic physical characteristics of the eastern mole.  On average, the eastern mole is approximately 6 -6.5 inches in length and weighs approximately 2.5 – 3 ounces.  These are not big guys, surprising when the amount of damage they cause is taken into consideration.  And speaking of guys, the males are generally approximately 10% larger than the females.  Since my erstwhile tenant Larry was on the large end of the size scale for eastern moles, I made the determination that he was probably really a “he.”  The eastern mole has got a solid, tube-shaped little body covered in short, soft, brownish gray fur.  The softness of the fur helps the mole move forward and backward in its tunnel without resistance.  The mole’s tail is short and thick with a light covering of fur.  Its eyes are tiny and almost invisible and eyesight is extremely poor.  Good vision is unnecessary for a life lived almost entirely underground.  The mole’s ears are also tiny and indistinguishable upon observation, but hearing is acute.  The eastern mole has a tube-shaped snout ending in a pinkish, hairless tip with two distinct nostrils.  Sense of smell is remarkably acute, and the nose/snout is also used by the mole to assist in both feeling along its underground tunnels and shoving dirt out of its way.  Probably the most striking physical characteristic of the eastern mole (which is already strikingly unusual in appearance) is its large, wide spade-like front feet and claws.  These feet are essentially specialized digging tools.  The mole uses these “shovels” to tunnel through the earth at an amazingly fast rate – up to 20 feet per hour.  The front feet are much larger than the rear.  Out of its tunnel, on the surface of the ground, the mole is a very slow-moving animal.  In terms of appearance, moles look nothing like voles or chipmunks, which are rodents.  The reality is, there’s probably not another life form on the planet which even comes close to resembling a mole.  In my opinion, they’re cute little creatures.  And in reality, their biology and design have evolved and adapted to make them perfectly suited for what they do and how they survive – namely, eating, living, and loving underground.
  • Diet and general behavior of the eastern mole.  Moles, as mentioned above, are insectivores.  They eat insects, grubs, earthworms, slugs, snails, and other small invertebrates living at, or just below, the surface of the ground.  They are incredibly voracious, with an individual capable of consuming up to 50% of its body weight per day.  Although the eastern mole feeds on a wide variety of invertebrate prey items, earthworms seem to be its meal of choice.  And it is this menu item which seems to mostly inform a sizeable percentage of its tunneling habits in the garden.  Since earthworms inhabit the layer of soil, or mulch, just below grade level, the mole pursues them in this location and at this depth by creating temporary feeding tunnels.  These exist just below the surface, and provide the mole its method of pursuit.  The structure and presence of the feeding tunnel itself often results in the mole’s prey falling into the feeding tunnel and right into the mole’s clutches, so to speak.  In addition to these shallowly-located, temporary feeding tunnels, the eastern mole also digs a network of permanent deep tunnels connected to the mole’s nest (and the feeding tunnels themselves).  The nest is generally located approximately 12 inches below ground and serves as the terminus of a number of the mole’s deeper tunnels and is the centerpiece of the mole’s extensive tunnel system.  The nest is generally lined with leaves and grass and is used for nursing/weaning babies and/or general habitation.  Of particular relevance to the gardener, this nest can often be constucted under a bush or shrub, sometimes with noticeable results.  Moles rarely exit their underground tunnel systems, and are therefore rarely spotted above ground.  As stated above, if and when they do end up above ground on the surface of the soil, they are relatively slow-moving.  Moles can be active at any time of day or night, but seem to be busiest at dawn or dusk.  But again, they can be busy at any and all times.  Since they are sensitive to vibrations in the ground, their activities in general are dictated by the presence of above ground activity, or lack thereof.  If the mole can detect the presence of surface vibrations near one of its tunnels, it is unlikely to be active in that area.  The mole’s feeding habits, namely its predation of earthworms, is stimulated by rainy or wet conditions (i.e. the watering of plants).  This occurs for two reasons.  First, the earthworms are stimulated into activity by the precipitation in the soil, and second, the soil itself, when wet or damp, proves to be a much easier medium through which the mole can propel itself in pursuit of its prey.  Mole activity increases after a rain, or after watering/sprinkling.  Since the mole is such an active burrower, and its tunnel/burrow network is so extensive, it is often presumed that a large population of moles can and do inhabit a given area.  This is incorrect.  Moles are solitary and antisocial, interacting only to reproduce.  A good rule of thumb for mole population density is 2 to 3 moles per acre.  Moles do not hibernate.  But because the the ground typically freezes, during the coldest winter months, at the level of the mole’s temporary feeding tunnels, the mole’s winter activities are generally restricted to its deeper tunnels where the soil is warmer.  With respect to voles and chipmunks, (aside from the fact that all three animals can and do burrow in the garden) the mole’s behavior differs substantially, as you’ll soon learn.  
Earthworms are the eastern mole's favorite prey. An individual mole can consume up to 50% of its bodyweight daily. Stock photo.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
Here, Larry the mole is investigating his new territory. Note his soft fur, which offers him no resistance when he's moving through his tunnels, either forward or backward.

Voles.  The woodland, or pine vole is very common in Michiana Shores.  This is the variety that is terrorizing the countryside, and my garden specifically.  Again, for the purposes of this article, I’ll use the terms “vole,” “woodland vole,” and/or “pine vole” to refer to this pernicious little creature.  The woodland vole, Microtus pinetorum, belongs to the family Cricetidae in the order Rodentia.  In other words, it is a rodent.  And, as you’ll soon see, the woodland vole’s diet and behavioral traits make it perhaps the most destructive of the three garden pests discussed in this article.

  • Size, general appearance, and basic physical characteristics of the woodland vole.  The woodland vole belongs to the same family of rodent as mice and hamsters.  In fact, it is sometimes referred to as a field mouse.  It is a small creature, approximately 4-6 inches in overall length.  The tail can be approximately 1.5 inches long, and is hairless.  Woodland voles weigh between .5  and 1.3 ounces.  In appearance, they closely resemble their close relatives, mice and hamsters, but with smaller eyes and less prominent ears.  They also possess a thicker and longer coat of brown fur.  Voles have good eyesight and hearing, and an excellent sense of smell.  In terms of general form and appearance, they are nothing like moles.  I know I have this animal in my garden because, not long ago, I surprised one individual while watering.  It broke cover from a clump of daisies and darted into an inconspicuous burrow opening in the mulch under the foliage of another clump of daisies.  Above ground, this is an extremely fast animal.  I got a good look at it, and distinctly remembered the appearance of its hairless tail as it disappeared into it’s burrow.  There was no mistaking this little creature for anything but a vole.
  • Diet and general behavior of the woodland vole.  Voles are herbivores.  They eat plant and vegetable material (although they do very occasionally consume small insects).  It is the vole’s specific dietary predilection that can potentially make this little animal a gardener’s most devastating nemesis.  The plant/vegetable material which voles like to eat includes seeds and fruit.  But what they really like to eat are the roots and stem systems, and vegetation, of plants.  They love tree roots, and in numbers, can devastate an entire apple orchard.  They’ll even eat tree bark during winter months when other food sources are scarce.  So with respect to my garden specifically, voles present a real threat to the ornamental plants I’ve worked so hard to grow and tend.  The devastation which voles can cause is magnified by the fact that, unlike the solitary mole (and as you’ll read later, the solitary chipmunk), they live in burrow/tunnel systems in communal, familial groups of up to nine or ten individuals.  Each of these groups of individuals resides in its own burrow system in a specific home range.  And therein lies the potentially bigger problem.  There can be more than one home range, each with its own burrow system and communal/familial group of voles in a given garden.  This essentially amounts to an infestation, which can be devastating to a garden.  I’ve been fortunate.  My garden either does not suffer from an infestation, or the voles who do live in my garden aren’t interested in the stems or roots of my plants.  My plants are all healthy, even those that are in close proximity to the vole burrows I’ve found.  Is it possible that there is enough seed material to keep my voles satisfied to the point that they don’t need to feast on the roots of my plants?  I can’t be sure.  (A bit later in this post, I’ll relay an instance of one of my plants not looking so great as a result of the burrowing activities of an initially unknown assailant).  Voles create tunnels/burrows in order to nest and bear young, to get at the roots and subterranean stems of plants, and to avoid detection by predators.  They do not use their tunnels as a means of pursuing prey, as moles do.  Voles, unlike moles, do emerge fairly frequently (up to 15 times per day) from their tunnels and roam up to 30 feet from the entrance(s) of their burrows.  They can be active day or night, but typically are busiest at dusk and dawn.  They have great hearing, and unlike moles, have good eyesight and, again, are exceptionally fast when moving on the surface.  Voles do not hibernate, but become less active during the cold winter months, relying on stores of food accumulated in anticipation of winter for nutritional sustenance.  Herbivorous voles are far more specifically destructive to garden plants than are moles, which do not eat plant material.  
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
Woodland vole (Microtus pinetorum). Note this animal's comparatively long, hairless tail. Stock photo.
A fairly well-concealed vole burrow entrance near the base of a group of shasta daisies.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
A vole tunnel, exposed after moving a blanket of fallen leaves out of the way.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
Leaf cover like this provides voles and chipmunks the freedom to practice their excavating activities with impunity.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
Treating the soil with a high-quality repellent keeps moles, voles, and chipmunks from practicing their art in my garden.

Repellex Systemic Granular.  This product works a bit differently than your typical burrowing mammal repellents.  It’s a systemic granular, which, when watered in to the soil around a particular plant, is taken up through the plant’s roots and distributed throughout the entire tissue structure of the plant.  Since its major active ingredient is capsaicin (the stuff that puts the “hot” in hot peppers), it effectively turns a treated plant – roots, stems, leaves, etc., into one big, impossible-to-eat, hot pepper.  Read about how I use this product to protect my plants from voles and chipmunks by clicking here, and how I use it to keep my plants safe from deer by clicking here.  This is an incredibly effective product.  To learn even more about this product, or to order it here, from Amazon, please click the #advertisement link.  (Here in “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks One,” you’re starting to get a pretty good idea of the trouble voles and chipmunks can cause.  This stuff’ll keep them from chowing down on your plants.)

Repellex Systemic Granular

Click here to learn more or to order

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A pic of one of my own jars of the excellent Repellex Systemic Granular. It works from the inside out to make my garden's plants inedible to voles and chipmunks.

Chipmunks.  The type of chipmunk living in our area here in Michiana Shores is the eastern chipmunk.  Again, I’ll use “chipmunk” and “eastern chipmunk” interchangeably.  The eastern chipmunk (Tamias striatus) is a herbivorous animal and, like the vole, is a member of the order Rodentia.  It’s family is Sciuridae, which also includes tree squirrels, ground squirrels, gophers, and prairie dogs. 

  • Size, general appearance, and basic physical characteristics of the eastern chipmunk.  In general appearance, the eastern chipmunk resembles its close relative, the tree squirrel, but is much smaller and differently colored.  It typically grows to about 12 inches in length, including it’s long, bushy tail, and can weigh between 2.5 to 5.5 ounces.  It has reddish brown fur and five dark stripes, alternating with lighter brown stripes running the length of its back.  It has large, bright eyes and prominent ears.  It has excellent vision and hearing, and, like moles and voles, a keen sense of smell.  This little animal, with its definite squirrel-like appearance, looks nothing like either a mole or vole.  I have seen a chipmunk in my garden on two occaccions.  Its identity was unmistakable.  Each time, it ran northward along the surface of the ground and disappeared under my deck.  The eastern chipmunk is extremely fast moving on the surface, and is adept at climbing as well as burrowing and tunneling underground.
  • Diet and general behavior of the eastern chipmunk.  The eastern chipmunk is primarily a herbivore, eating mostly seeds, nuts, fruits, bulbs, and green plant material.  Occasionally, chipmunks will eat insects, earthworms, or even bird eggs, but again, are primarily herbivorous.  Chipmunks, like moles, are solitary animals, except when mating and birthing and weaning young.  They are adept at climbing trees, but they are primarily burrowing animals, constructing and living in extensive networks of subterranean tunnels.  Although chipmunks are solitary, an individual animal’s extensive burrow/tunnel system can possess a main tunnel which exists at least 3 feet below ground and can extend up to 30 feet in length.  In addition to this main tunnel, there is an accompanying nest and network of branching tunnels and chambers within the chipmunk’s tunnel system.  I’ve discovered through my research that the deep tunneling activities of chipmunks can compromise the structural integrity of house foundations, driveways, and other concrete structures.  Chipmunks tend to locate the entrances to their tunnels in unobtrusive spots, and go to some trouble disguising these locations with leaves or other plant material.  An individual chipmunk uses its tunnel system for shelter and as a means of moving freely throughout its range without the risk of detection by predators.  It may periodically use its tunneling abilities to access plant bulbs for food.  An individual chipmunk will aggressively defend its home range and tunnel system from other intruding chipmunks.  Chipmunks, like moles and voles, can be active at all times.  But like voles, they are most active at dusk and dawn. Chipmunks do not actually hibernate, but they do enter a near-dormant state of only very limited activity during the winter months.
Eastern chipmunk (Tamius striatus). This little guy looks quite a bit like a miniature tree squirrel, complete with long, bushy tail. Stock photo.
Nuts and seeds are among the chipmunk's favorite foods. Stock photo.

In this section, I’ve reviewed the three types of uninvited mammalian guest I’ve observed in my garden – moles, voles, and chipmunks.  Even though all three burrow and tunnel, they are all very different creatures.  Moles are insectivores, are solitary, and use their tunnels to hunt for, and capture, live prey.  Voles are herbivores, communal, and use their tunnels to hide from predators and access plant roots for food.  Chipmunks are also herbivores, but are solitary like moles.  They use their extensive tunnel systems to move about their respective territories undetected by predators, and to periodically access and feed on underground plant bulbs.  Moles have extremely poor eyesight, but keen hearing.  Voles and chipmunks have excellent eyesight and hearing.  Each of the three has an excellent sense of smell.  Moles, when they’re out of their tunnels and above ground, move relatively slowly.  Voles and chipmunks are extremely fast when running around on the surface of the ground.  The physical and behavioral differences between each of these burrowing garden invaders are very clear.

Moles and voles and chipmunks, oh my…   And lucky me, I’ve got all three of them in my garden.  How ’bout that?  Well, there’s no use complaining about it.  I’ve got ’em and now I’m dealing with ’em.  It’s an ongoing thing, this fight that these guys have picked with me.  Since my garden is only a little over a year old, and what’s here now wasn’t here last year, it’s a little tough to gauge my overall progress in this war of attrition.  I guess the fact that my plants are all still happy and healthy is maybe a good sign that I’m not losing.  Or at least not losing too badly.

How to Identify Mole, Vole, and Chipmunk Tunnels and Holes

One of the key points in my ability to save my garden from the onslaught of this unholy triumverate has been the need for me to identify the effects of each animal’s respective activity.  Specifically, I’ve had to try to figure out which tunnel (and the associated resulting damage) belongs to which animal.  Theoretically, this should be relatively easy.  I should be able to look at the tunnel (and the collateral damage arising as a result of its implementation) and know whether it belongs to mole, vole, or chipmunk.  Easy.

But in the case of my garden, the crystal clear waters of pest damage identification have been muddied.  Muddied by mulch.  And weed barrier.

In regular soil (or even lawn) the outline, shape, size, points of ingress/egress, etc. of the burrow/tunnel of a mole, vole, or chipmunk are all fairly distinct and observeable.  You can see the hole the animal uses to enter/exit the tunnel, or the heaving/mounding surface effects of the displacement of the underlying soil the animal has caused by the excavation of its burrow/tunnel.  The presence of a generous layer of mulch can obscure these visual cues.  Further, with weed barrier under the mulch (this is fully the case in two of my planting features and partially the case in one more), the effects and details of animal burrowing/tunneling can become even more indistinct and obscured.  I’ve got mulch in all of my planting features, and a combination of mulch and weed barrier in two-and-a-half of my planting features.  So, more good luck!  The upshot here is that, in some cases, there’s no really easy way for me to tell which animal is doing the digging in my garden.

I said it wasn’t easy.  I didn’t say it was impossible.

I’ve got a few things going for me in helping to figure out who’s tunneling where.  For one, I’ve actually seen the specific animal in at least two cases enter and/or emerge from its burrow.  For another thing, I’ve got the benefit of having examined the architecture of mole, vole, and chipmunk burrows both in my reading research, and in field situations where each burrow/tunnel was unobscured by mulch and fairly easy to see.  Finally, I’ve got tenacity going for me.  Not necessarily smarts, but certainly tenacity.  I’ve dug, plugged, filled, soaked, observed, applied (repellent), photographed, and waited at the site of each sign of pest tunneling.  I’ve studied and referenced each respective pest’s behaviors (i.e. where and how they each like to build their respective tunnels).  And I’ve applied some basic deductive reasoning to the collective result of all of these efforts, observations, studies, and research to come up with what I believe is a fairly accurate field reference guide to identifying the burrows/tunnels of moles, voles, and chipmunks in my garden.

Note:  For the purposes of this section, I may use the terms “tunnel” and “burrow” interchangeably.  Further, the definition of the term “shelter” will be expanded to include offspring birthing and weaning activities.

Mole tunnels and holes.  A mole uses its tunnel system primarily for three purposes: for shelter, for underground movement/travel, and to assist in its pursuit of prey.  And these three different uses, along with the physical anatomy of the mole itself, directly impact the architecture, appearance, location, and entrance/egress points of the mole’s tunnel system.

  • Mole tunnel architecture.  The mole’s tunnel system consists primarily of three main components – the nest, deep (permanent) tunnels, and feeding (temporary) tunnels.  The mole’s nest is typically located about a foot or so underground, and ususally under a bush, stump, boulder, or some other protective/sheltering structure or growth.  It serves as the “Grand Central Station” of the mole’s tunnel system.  Most or all of the system’s permanent deep tunnels lead to the nest, which is generally lined with leaves and grasses.  The nest is used for sleeping, general habitation, and/or nursing offspring.  The deep, or permanent tunnels are located at or below the subterranean level of the nest.  These are incredibly extensive (remember, only 2 or 3 individual moles per acre) and provide the mole with “easy walking” throughout its underground realm.  The feeding, or temporary tunnels are excavated just below the surface and are used for the pursuit of earthworms and other prey items residing at that level in the soil.  It is these tunnels which are the most visible and identifiable from an aboveground vantage point.
  • Mole tunnel appearance.  As stated, the mole’s tunnel network is extensive.  But for the purposes of surface identification, it is the visible portion of the mole’s tunnel system which is relevant here.  The mole’s tunnels which are visible at the surface of the soil are the feeding (temporary) tunnels.  As the mole pursues its prey through the layer of soil just below the surface, it uses its broad, spade-like front feet and claws, as well as its sturdy snout, to “shovel” dirt out of its way as it propels itself forward.  The path of least resistance for this displaced soil is up.  So, the mole’s feeding tunnel is visible as an elongated dome at the ground’s surface, punctuated by intervals of eruptions (piles, or “molehills”) of heaved-up soil that arise as the mole pushes increasing volumes of soil up and out of its way as it hunts for prey.  Molehills also result from the mole’s excavation of a vertical tunnel upward from deeper underground.  As the volume of displaced dirt is shoved upward, it breaks the surface in the form of a molehill.   The mole’s feeding tunnel is structurally unsound – it will collapse when stepped on by a human being or other large animal, as it is essentially a hollow, domed tube just under the surface of the soil.  The “domed” appearance of the “roof” of the elongated feeding tunnel at the ground’s surface, along with any corresponding molehills, are the telltale signs of mole tunneling activity.
  • Mole tunnel locations.  A mole will typically locate its tunnel system wherever it can find moist and loamy soil (my garden is the perfect spot) where prey is abundant and underground propulsion is easy.  Discretion is not a concern – moles make no effort to conceal their tunnels.  As mentioned above, the mole will typically locate its tunnel system’s centerpiece, the nest, under a protective growth or structure (like one of my rhododendrons – I’ll explain momentarily).
  • Ingress/egress points.  Moles rarely come to the surface to emerge from their tunnel systems.  When they do, it’s usually to gather leaves or grasses to line the nest, to escape flooding of their tunnel systems, or to avoid the effects of applied repellent products.  Because moles are pretty stout and robust, the actual size of the hole they make if and when they do exit their tunnels is usually 2 to 3 inches in diameter (about the same diameter as the permanent and feeding tunnels themselves).  This exit hole is accompanied by and/or usually obscured by a corresponding molehill.
  • Damage from mole tunneling activities.  Because moles are not herbivores, they do not damage plants by feeding on them.  That’s not to say that their tunneling activities are necessarily totally harmless to the garden or ornamental plants.  As a mole excavates its feeding tunnels in search of prey, young plants in its path may be uprooted or shoved aside.  Further, any portions of a plant’s root system which may become exposed as a result of the mole’s tunneling maybe in danger of cold or heat damage.  Since a mole will sometimes locate its nest under a bush or shrub, approximately a foot below the surface of the ground, that area of displaced soil could compromise that plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients.  For larger, established bushes and shrubs, this is not really a concern.  But for younger, smaller establishing bushes/shrubs, the location of a mole’s nest under its root system could cause real problems.  At this point, I’d like to relay a personal story from my garden.  I had planted a young polar night rhododendron in late June of 2020.  It did very well all summer until approximately late September of 2020, when it began to look chlorotic (yellowish).  It was alive, but not green.  It was at about this same time that I discovered holes in the soil (which I attributed to a chipmunk and duly filled with more soil) near the bases of many of my plants which shared this rhododendron’s planting feature.  The rhodie made it through the winter just fine, and even though it was sporting bulging flower buds, it still had a yellowish cast to its foliage.  In May of this year, I began to excavate and plant 18 new dianthus plants in this planting feature to replace the previous 18 that did not survive the winter.  In doing this, I discovered deep tunnels connecting all of the locations of the deceased dianthus plants.  When I dug at the location of the dianthus that had been planted closest to my yellowing rhodie, I discovered a pretty deep tunnel leading directly toward the rhodie’s roots.  I dug down deeper, enlarged the tunnel, and discovered a large, hollowed-out “chamber” directly beneath the root system of my rhododendron.  No wonder it was freakin’ yellow!!!  I initially attributed this damage to a chipmunk, but now know better.  It was the work of my friend Larry.  The mole.  The guy I introduced you to early in thisa article.  Larry had located his nest under the roots of this young rhododendron.  I did replenish the rhodie’s soil and it has fully recovered.  But the moral to this little story is, just because moles don’t eat plants, it doesn’t mean that they still can’t harm them.
  • Detection/visibility/identification concerns.  As stated earlier, I’ve got mulch in all of the planting features of my garden.  And in some planting features, I’ve got weed barrier underneath that mulch.  The presence of these media, can make it difficult to spot mole activity, and identify it as such.  Take for example my yellowing rhododendron story.  This planter has both weed barrier and mulch covering the surface of the soil.  Round openings were cut in the weed barrier at the location of each plant I bedded in that planting feature.  And then a generous layer of mulch was applied over the weed barrier.  Think about it.  How easy would it be to miss the presence of Larry’s feeding tunnels if they existed under the weed barrier?  The only areas where displaced soil could erupt from the ground in molehill form would be near the base of each plant at the point where the weed barrier had been cut out.  I knew there was tunneling going on there but I couldn’t identify it as the work of Larry or his kind, because I couldn’t see the feeding tunnels or molehills.  In fact, it wasn’t until I started shoving repellent down into the holes at the bases of all the plants in that feature that the situation changed and I was able to identify the problem as a mole problem – specifically a Larry problem – by coaxing Larry to move his feeding tunnels to a level above the weed barrier, but still below the surface of the mulch…   Ah, but this is information for the upcoming Part Two of this article.  For our purposes today, it is enough to say that the presence of mulch and/or mulch in combination with weed barrier, can obscure the appearance, and subsequent identification, of mole tunneling activity in the garden.
Note the mole's stout body form and large, powerful, spade-like front feet. This little guy is built for moving alot of dirt out of his way. His shape and size, and the way he digs, determines the shape and size of his tunnels and holes. Stock photo.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
A section of a mole feeding tunnel visible at the surface of un-mulched ground.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
This is a mole feeding tunnel visible through a layer of mulch. It's detectable only by noticing the underlying soil heaving up in spots through the mulch. The thickness of the mulch makes it more difficult to see the domed "roof" of the feeding tunnel.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
This is the feeding tunnel work of Larry the mole. He excavated this temporary feeding tunnel below the surface of the mulch, but above the weed barrier. There is a large poulation of earthworms living in the mulch layer above the weed barrier. The availability of this prey item was one of the factors encouraging Larry to construct his feeding tunnel at this level.
This was the young rhododendron that became chlorotic as a result of Larry locating his nest under its root system. Moles don't eat plants, but their tunneling activities can certainly affect them.

Vole tunnels and holes.  Like moles, voles tunnel for shelter, for travel, and to access food.  The vole’s anatomy, diet, and behavior all combine to determine the structure, appearance, location, and ingress/egress points of its tunnel system.

  • Vole tunnel architecture.  The vole’s tunnel system is built to provide shelter, safe travel, and food access.  Voles live in familial/communal groups of approximately 3 to 10 individuals, in dedicated familial/communal group tunnel systems:  one tunnel system per one familial/communal group of voles.  Unlike the mole’s extensive tunnel system, the voles’ systems are not particularly large in circumference. They are often constructed several inches below ground.  Further, even though one tunnel system houses only one familial/communal vole group, many of these groups (and their respective tunnel systems) can be present in fairly close proximity to one another.  It is therefore possible to have a number of familial/communal vole groups, and corresponding tunnel systems, located in one garden.  As observed earlier in this article, this can essentially amount to a garden infestation.  The tunnels themselves are generally only 1 to 2 inches in diameter and can be observed running just under the surface of the ground.  These shallowly-located tunnels can lead to a deeper tunnel or to an ingress/egress point (hole).  Any vole tunnel, whether shallow or deep, can lead directly to the roots and underground stem sections of a plant.  This is one of the vole’s primary food sources.  The deeper tunnels provide birthing and weaning room for offspring and mother, and general protection and concealment from predators for the tunnel system’s familial/communal population.
  • Vole tunnel appearance.  In my garden, the only visual evidence of the vole’s tunnel system is the presence of narrow, sinuous and slightly-elevated surface ridges, or “domes” leading to/from tiny ingress/egress points (holes) or to the bases of plants.  These tunnels are far, far smaller in every respect than those of the mole, and there are no corresponding  surface dirt piles, as in the case of the mole’s feeding tunnels  Because all of my planters are mulched, it’s not always easy to see the vole’s tunnel systems.  They generally present as a cracking or slight heaving of the mulch layer along the sinuous tunnel routes as described above.  The ingress/egress points are probably the most obvious visual cue indicating the presence of the vole’s tunnel system.
  • Vole tunnel locations.  The voles in my garden, unlike the indiscreet mole, have located their tunnels in inconspicuous, highly sheltered areas, specifically underneath the leaves and branches of, and among, several clumps of shasta daisies.  The soil beneath the mulch here is slightly moist, loamy, and fertile.  It provides easy digging for the voles, and probably a ready food source for them as well, in the form of the roots and rhizomes of my colonies of daisies.  The daisies’ overhanging stems, branches, and leaves provide excellent concealment for these tunnel systems.  The daisies appear to be suffering no ill effects whatsoever as a result of the voles’ presence.
  • Ingress/egress points.  The holes associated with the vole tunnel systems are relatively small.  Probably no more than 1 – 1.5 inches in diameter.  This is consistent with the tiny vole’s anatomy.  These holes tend to be located at, or very near, the bases of my shasta daisies.
  • Damage from vole tunneling activities.  The damage associated with the tunneling activities of my garden’s vole population appears to be very minimal and is manifest only in the presence of the tiny holes and raised ridges of the tunnels.  This is surprising.  It’s possible that, in terms of plant destruction, the vole is the most malignant of the three garden intruders showcased in this article.  Since voles target the roots and stems of plants as their primary food source, their capacity for direct plant damage is massive.  My vole population control and repelling techniques will be discussed in the two subsequent upcoming parts of this article.
  • Detection/identification/visibility concerns.  The discernable vole population in my garden appears restricted to the northeastern quadrant of my largest planting feature: the centrally located “blue and white hill” feature.  I believe this is so because of the colonies of shasta daisies growing there.  Like all of my planting features, this one is mulched.  The mulch does not seem to hinder my ability to locate the voles’ tunnel system(s).  In fact, the voles apparently rely on the mulch layer as an integral component of their tunnel system architecture.  Although I do need to look closely, I can clearly see their holes and tunnels in the mulch among the daisies.
I have located vole tunnel holes near the base of this clump of shasta daisies.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
The clumping nature and dense, overhanging foliage of shasta daisy colonies provide cocealment for vole tunnels and their respective inhabitants.

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Chipmunk tunnels and holes.  The chipmunk tunnel system provides its inhabitant with shelter, concealed subterranean travel, and in some cases, access to food.  Like moles and voles, the chipmunk’s biology and behavior impact the nature and location of its tunnel system and corresponding components.

  • Chipmunk tunnel architecture.  Although the eastern chipmunk is a solitary animal, it maintains a fairly large home range and a corresponding tunnel system.  This tunnel system is remarkably extensive (not as wide-ranging as the mole’s, but far larger than that of the vole) and consists of a number of primary components: the main tunnel (or main run), the nest, storage or “pantry” chambers, side tunnels, drain tunnels, entrance tunnels, and plunge (or vertical descent) tunnels.  The main tunnel (main run) is what it sounds like – the main corridor of the chipmunk tunnel system.  This can be located  3 feet or more below ground.  The main tunnel leads to the nest, which is the resting place, or “lair” of the chipmunk.  It is typically lined with dried leaf material as bedding.  The chipmunk excavates drain tunnels which lead down from the main tunnel and are intended to direct any collecting water down and away from the rest of the tunnel system.  There are a number of side tunnels leading to various storage chambers, or “pantries” where food is stored.  There are also a number of entrance tunnels located at various points throughout the tunnel system.  There is also usually at least one plunge, or descent tunnel which connects vertically and directly from the surface to the main tunnel.  The overall length of this tunnel system can extend to over thirty feet, and its drain tunnels can extend several feet below the surface.  It is the extensive nature and depth of this tunnel system which can cause damage to structures and buildings, as noted above in the previous section.  The chipmunk constructs this system for purposes of shelter, freedom of undetected movement throughout its range, and periodic access to plant bulbs, upon which it may sometimes feed.
  • Chipmunk tunnel appearance.  Despite the sprawling, extensive underground network of the eastern chipmunk’s tunnel system, its aboveground appearance is often undetectable.  The very few detectable aboveground signs of this tunnel system offer no indication whatsoever of its true, extensive subterranean scope and nature.  Generally, these signs consist of small, neat, diffusely-located holes, which are sometimes disguised with leaves or twigs.  That’s it.  There are no visible domed tunnels breaking the flat plane of the ground.  There are no mounds or piles of dirt.  Just a few small, discreet holes.
  • Chipmunk tunnel locations.  The location of a chipmunk tunnel system must be described explicitly in terms of the visible locations of it’s ingress/egress points – the holes.  The actual location and extent of the underground tunnel system itself can only be implied.  I do have a chipmunk which has located its home range in my garden.  Its tunnel system appears to be located along the garden’s east side.  This is where I’ve actually spotted the animal and it’s where I’ve discovered its obscure holes.  As is the case with all of my garden’s planting features, this location is covered with a thick layer of mulch.  No weed barrier.  Moving from north to south along this shady eastern border, plantings of various ferns, hydrangeas, hostas, coral bells, azalea, and astilbe thrive.  It’s among these plants, in a few locations in the mulch, where I’ve discovered this tunnel system’s ingress and egress points.
  • Ingress/egress points.  The ingress/egress points of the chipmunk’s tunnel system – the holes – are small and tidy.  They appear to be no more than about 2 inches in diameter and are very neat in appearance.  There is no dirt piled near them and they seem to be disguised by fallen leaves or small twigs.  They also seem to be in obscure locations, hidden by plants.  I’ve only spotted a few of them.  And, as I’ll describe in the upcoming Parts Two and Three of this article, if I fill them in, the chipmunk seems to excavate more.  Ironically, the most notable feature of these holes seems to be their nondescript, unobtrusive nature and locations.
  • Damage from chipmunk tunneling activities.  It doesn’t appear that the chipmunk in my garden is doing any direct damage to any of my plants.  Since the chipmunk’s primary food source is seeds and nuts, and the only plant bulbs in my garden are located in a spot which doesn’t seem to be within the radius of its tunnel system, I’m not anticipating any plant casualties as a result of the chipmunk’s presence.  Since the main tunnel of the tunnel system is located so deep underground, I can’t imagine its presence would compromise the root systems of any of my plants (assuming that it’s even located near any of my plants).  Potentially, if the chipmunk tunnels too closely to the root system of a given plant and exposes the roots to harsh weather, there could be a health issue for that plant.  My current methodology is to remain vigilant and reverse any such potential root exposure by replacing the missing soil.  Up to this point, this has not proven to be a huge issue.  The only apparent effect of the chipmunk’s activities is the presence of small holes and corresponding tunnels which, in and of themselves, appear to be causing no direct harm to my plants or to any structures on our property.
  • Detection/identification/visibility concerns.  The mulch in my planting feature seems to have no impact on my ability to detect the presence of the chipmunk’s tunnel system and its corresponding ingress/egress points.  I don’t think the mulch makes it any harder to see what the animal is up to, or how and where it’s excavating its entrance tunnels.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks One
This is a chipmunk hole. It's discreetly located, and the chipmunk has placed some twig and leaf debris across its rim in an apparent effort to camouflage it.
This is the area in which the chipmunk's tunnel system appears to be located.

Moles, voles, and chipmunks all create tunnel systems for purposes of shelter, underground travel, and, to varying degrees, access to food.  Each of these animals is anatomically and behaviorially different from the other, and the architecture of each one’s respective tunnel system reflects these anatomical and behavioral differences.  Each animal’s respective tunnel system also has its own unique appearance and identifying markers.  And each respective tunnel system has its unique impact, potential and realized, on the garden and its plants.  And of course, the presence of mulch and weed barrier can obscure the appearance and visual details of each type of tunnel system. 

And that’s about the size of it.

So here we are, at the end of Part One of The Renaissance Garden Guy’s three part take on dealing with three tough little garden pests.  Since we’ve gotta deal with ’em, I thought it was best to start out by trying to understand ’em.  I hope I’ve been at least somewhat effective in explaining what each of these creatures is, and how each one differs from the other.  And I hope that by me explaining to you what each of these guys has been doing in my garden, you now have a decent idea (if you didn’t already) of what their respective individual agendas are, and what you might expect if they follow through on those agendas in your garden.  If I’ve done a good job of coming across with this info today, then I’ll feel pretty good about moving on to Part Two of the story.

(Please click these links to read Part Two and Part Three of this article.  And if you’re looking to keep voles and chipmunks from chowing down on individual plants, please click here to read my article about how to do that very thing.  Finally, click here for my Top 10 List of burrowing critter repellents.)

But for right now, I want to thank you for once again sticking around – I know it was another long one.  As always, I appreciate your interest and your continued readership.

Cheers, and Happy Gardening!

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5 thoughts on “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks in the Garden – Part One: Identifying Your Pest and His or Her Habits”

  1. Stephanie A Smith

    I really appreciate your in depth discussion of the differences between the moles, voles and chippies. I’ve determined with your help, that I am dealing with a chipmunk, as they only eat the sunflower seeds that are sprouting. Who doesn’t love sunflower sprouts? The voles might eat them, but there are no obvious tunneling trails and the holes are very neat and small. The other plants are not seeming to be affected.
    I will read part 2 and 3 before I decide what to do about these invaders of my garden and my obsessive thoughts. Thanks for your article! You saved me a lot of time and sleep!

    1. Thank you so much for reading the article, Stephanie, and for commenting here. I’m glad the identification stage of dealing with your little pest is underway. I do want to point out to you, however, that although a chipmunk tunnel might appear neat from the outside, it is more than likely very deep and very extensive. Also bear in mind that vole tunnel holes can also look small and neat. In any case, it’s definitely a good idea to not let either of these critters establish a “beachhead” in your garden. Voles multiply quickly and will definitely eat your plants. Chipmunks, although solitary by nature, will also overrun your garden in increasing numbers if there’s a large, concentrated local population in your area. Plus, chipmunk tunnels, because they are so deep and extensive, can damage foundations, sidewalks, driveways, etc. I wish you luck in your repelling endeavors, and I’d love to hear how things work out for you. Thank you once again for reading the article, and for your kind words and interest. Best of luck!

  2. Larry was very cute. I am glad that you were able to catch him and relocate him. I hope he forgets your address !!!

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