How to Deal With Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three

How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks in the Garden – Part Three: Garden-wide Eviction

How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks in the Garden - Part Three: Garden-wide Eviction

“How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three” will show you the garden-wide eviction plan I use to encourage these little pests to hang out somewhere else.  It’s an excellent strategy that’s effective and easy to implement.  Check it out.

Welcome back readers and subscribers.  It’s time for my third and final installment of “How to Deal With Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks in the Garden”.  And a timely installment it is, with moles, voles, and chipmunks scrambling to accumulate stores of food in anticipation of winter weather.  This is as good a time as any to address any mole/vole/chipmunk trouble you may be experiencing in your own garden. 

Ah, moles, voles, and chipmunks…   

Noble and majestic creatures, each of them.  Sleek and powerful.  Stealthy and cunning.  Undeniably dangerous.  Feared and revered – often simultaneously.  In Part One of this article, I identified them.  In Part Two of the article, I regaled you with tales of my heroism in confonting these awe-inspiring beasts in what has now evidently become their natural habitat – my garden.  By comparison, “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three” is somewhat anticlimactic.  It’s shorter, at least.  If you’ve read the first two parts, you’ll understand how to tell which animal is which by its respective biology, as well as by the damage it causes.  And you’ll know how I repair that damage in my garden (in what’s starting to feel like ceremonial fashion) and simultaneously drive each of them away from the fairly immediate site(s) of its respective tunneling activity.  Here in Part Three, I’m going to discuss my techniques for purging (or attempting to purge) any and all of these creatures entirely from my garden.

I’ll start with some basic info about my garden and its location.  This is important because it not only informs my broad-spectrum repelling technique, but also gives you a pretty good idea of the ostensible futility of my efforts.  Next, I’ll explain that technique and those efforts.  Finally, I’ll tell you about some unsolicited and, until very recently, unwanted assistance I’m receiving in my struggles against my implacable garden foes.

The Nature of My Garden and Its Location and Boundaries

In order for me to explain my fairly banal global banishment technique, a little background regarding my garden’s characteristics, location, and overall footprint is in order.  And, not to cry on anyone’s shoulder, this information should explain why total and permanent garden intruder banishment could possibly (in the worst of circumstances) be only a pipe dream for me.

Densely planted and numerous planting features (beds).  My garden is planted in very dense fashion with ornamental perennials.  The plants are growing close to one another, and the various planting features, or beds, are likewise in close proximity to each other.  The photos below should give you a pretty good idea of the dense, vegetative nature of my garden.

Heavy mulch layer.  All of my planting features are covered with a fairly heavy layer of wood mulch.  The two photos below show the typical amount of mulch covering the surface of the ground of each of my garden’s planting features.

The location of my garden.  The photos below show the dense forest of oak, maple, and other large trees immediately surrounding our garden.

The size, shape, and boundaries of my garden.  Although our land is quite extensive, the area our ornamental perennial garden occupies is relatively small.  It’s a bit under 3,000 square feet, and it’s surrounded by a wood privacy fence.  The garden is bounded by our house to the east and our forest to the north, west, and south.  The recent photos below (please pardon the dropped leaves and general mess back there) give you a basic idea of the garden’s layout.

South section of the garden, facing west.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks Three
Center section of the garden, facing west.
North section of the garden, facing west.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks Three
Fall in my garden is a challenging time for dealing with little tunneling mammals. The blanket of fallen leaves provides them with perfect cover for covert excavating.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks Three
Here's a vole tunnel entrance. I found it under a leaf pile.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks Three
Zonal, directional applications of repellent work to "herd" tunneling critters in one direction, out of my garden. Here's a pic of a section of treated ground.

What does it all mean?  Very simply, the nature of my garden and its location in the forest make the total and permanent removal of these creatures from my garden exceedingly difficult.  And the shape and layout of my garden basically dictates the methodology for the application of repellent in my push for total vermin elimination.

  • Why does dense planting make it difficult to eliminate moles, voles, and chipmunks?  Because my garden is so densely planted (with individual plants and planting beds alike located very closely to one another), broad range, topical application of granular repellent is far more difficult than if I were applying it to an unobstructed surface.  For example, it would be simple to apply granular repellent to a lawn because a broadcast or drop spreader could be employed to quickly, easily, and uniformly distribute the repellent.  The foliage of all those plants, so close together, makes topical application of repellent pretty tricky.  The repellent works by releasing its active ingredients into the soil.  When plants are growing so close together, it can be tough to get the repellent past the leaves to the ground below.  This is also the reason that the application of liquid repellent is impossible in my garden.  There is just no way to direct the stream of the product to the base of each plant without coating all of the foliage first.  In general, ornamental plants do not respond well when this oily product coats their blooms, leaves and stems.  Another problem that arises when plants are growing together in dense clumps, close to one another, is the fact that tunneling pests, after being driven from one clump of plants or a specific planting feature, can quickly and effectively move their tunnels to an adjacent clump or planting feature.  Those overarching leaves and stems provide excellent cover for tunneling animals to work their special brand of magic.
  • The trouble with mulch.  Is mulching your planting beds with a high-quality wood mulch a good idea?  Generally, yeah, it is.  It’s a great insulating and protective medium from both heat and cold, and it helps the underlying soil retain moisture.  It’s also attractive and decorative (if you like this sort of mild embellishment – I do).  The problem with its presence in my garden arises from the fact that it inhibits the leeching of the active ingredients of topically-applied repellents into the underlying soil.  In this respect, the mulch acts as a repellent barrier.  It also provides additional cover for tunneling pests.  And I’ve got a lot of mulch.
  • Why is the location of my garden a problem?  Moles, voles, and chipmunks (at least those that live in these parts) are forest dwellers.  They find food and shelter in the dense woods which surround our house and garden.  But in the woods, they’re also susceptible to predation.  We’ve got fox, coyote, raccoon, mink, possum, feral cat, owl, and hawk populations in the woods on our land.  My fenced garden provides little pests with a safe environment and a rich and varied menu.  There will always be moles, voles, and chipmunks ready, willing, and able to take up safe harbor in my ornamental perennial garden.  This fact begs a philosophical question:  Since moles, voles, and chipmunks are the original (and natural) residents of the land I call my own, are they really the intruders?  Perhaps a topic for another day…   
  • The shape and size of my garden directly informs my broad-spectrum repelling tactic.  My garden is essentially a big rectangle.  As you’re about to see, this makes it pretty easy to come up with, and employ, a garden-wide repelling tactic.

My Garden-wide Repelling Technique

This is what I do, subsequent to the site-specific repair/repel activities I detailed in Part Two of this article.  Where those techniques (filling tunnels, protecting plants, saturating corresponding localized areas with repellent) involved repairing the damage caused by each of my three pests and repelling them from the immediate vicinity of this damage, what I’m talking about here is wide-range repelling.  Here in “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three,” I’m going to describe what I do, in addition to my tunnel-site-specific repair/repel tactics, to drive any pest populations entirely and (hopefully) permanently out of my garden as a whole.

“How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three:” Getting moles, voles, and chipmunks entirely out of the whole garden.  This is the game plan:  Follow the directions on your repellent product’s label.  Seriously.  What most burrowing/tunneling animal repellent manufacturer’s advise is a zonal, directional series of initial and subsequent applications, designed to systematically drive the animals toward one specific exit point.  And this is exactly what I do (in addition to my tunnel-site-specific repellent applications).  In the admittedly crudely rendered diagrams below, you can see that I worked from one end of my garden (the south end), moving north in sections, saturating each section with repellent, effectively “herding” the tunneling critters toward the north end of the garden and back out into the woods.  I saturated the south section first.  This section encompassed the entire width of my garden from house to west fence line and was approximately one-third the overall length of the garden from south to north.  Once I applied the repellent to this first section, I watered it in heavily to assist in the penetration of the active ingredients into the soil.  I then waited 5 days and applied another dose of repellent to this section, and a new dose of repellent to the next section.  The waiting period allows enough time for the repellent to negatively impact the scent of the soil in which the tunnels are located and the taste of each respective animal’s food source.  I repeated this process, heavily watering the first and second sections and waiting another 5 days.  I then applied repellent once again to the first and second sections, and the third section, and watered everything in.  

How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks Three
The shaded area indicates the first section of repellent application.
How to Deal with Moles Voles Chipmunks Three
The second section receives its first application of repellent and the original section gets a re-application.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks Three
After ten days, the first two sections get a re-application of repellent and the third and final section gets an application.

Some notes on this technique.  There are a few notable points concerning the use of this technique in my garden.

  • Product directions.  What I’ve outlined above is roughly the same application paradigm many repellent manufacturers suggest for use with their respective products.  In terms of settling on a repellent that’s right for you, please feel free to view this list of recommended repellent products.  Whichever product(s) you choose, please read and follow all manufacturer directions.
  • Painstaking application by hand.  As I mentioned earlier, repellent application of this sort would be a snap if I were trying to drive pests out of a wide open lawn.  I could apply the product quickly and easily using a common drop or broadcast fertilizer spreader.  This is not the case with my heavily-planted garden.  Not only do I need to apply the product by hand, I’ve got to make sure it’s applied amply and evenly on the ground in which my plants are growing.  This often involves moving foliage aside and kneeling down among the various plants to ensure proper repellent application.
  • Re-application.  Because of my garden’s location right in the heart of Vermin Central, the bad guys are always trying to get in.  The issue of ensuring that enough repellent makes its way down into the soil through my garden’s layer of wood mulch is also a concern.  Frequent re-application is often necessary.
  • The easy part.  The fact that my garden, overall, is shaped like a big rectangle makes for easy “sectioning off” of my three sections of repellent application.  The basic rectangular shape allowed me to measure off three equally-sized sections of my garden for successive repellent application (and re-application).
  • Voles.  At present, voles are basically my only garden pest problem.  My chipmunk stays, for the most part, on the north side of our property outside the garden’s fence.  He was the first and easiest of my pests to evict from the confines of my garden proper.  Moles are also a problem of the recent past.  With the exception of a minor exploratory feeding tunnel or two at my garden’s perimeter every once in awhile, there is no evidence that my moles have returned to the garden itself.  Voles, however, remain a persistent problem.  The fact that I had unwittingly been harboring an infestation is the primary cause of this persisting issue – I had a huge number of them to begin with when I first started working to drive them away.  Although I’ve substantially reduced their poulation in my garden by using the technique I’m describing here (and by my repair/repel techniques described in Part Two of this article), I still have one or two pockets of voles located toward the north end of my garden.  The fact that their tunnels, at one time, could be found in almost every single planting feature, but now exist only in a couple of spots toward the north end of the garden tells me that my repellent application techniques are working.

The Wild Card:  Help from Nature

Predators in my garden.  In the late summer or early fall of last year, I discovered that some animal had been excavating in my garden.  There were large holes dug out of a number of my planting features and some of my plants were even uprooted.  I repaired the damage to the best of my ability, but awoke to more of the same damage the next morning.  Since I had seen raccoons and possum on our property many times, and since the damage occurred overnight (raccoons and possum are nocturnal, primarily) I assumed it was one or the other which was to blame for the damage.  At the time, I didn’t give too much thought to the potential inspiration for such excavating.  I just knew it was a pain to fix and that I wanted it to stop.  A heavy dose of coyote/fox urine granules did the trick.  I sprinkled it liberally throughout the garden and along the outside perimeter of the garden’s fence line.  I repeated the application per the manufacturer’s directions and I never had a repeat of the activity.  Foxes and coyotes are apex predators in our area, and lesser predators like raccoons, possums, mink, feral cats, etc. are on the menu.  Each of those animals avoid any area where there is a scent of fox or coyote.

Back then, If I’d understood the meaning of all of that digging, I might have reconsidered my decision to repel predators from my garden.

I now, however, get the picture.  Whatever was digging in my garden at night wasn’t just passing the time.  It was digging in pursuit of burrowing prey – namely moles, voles, and chipmunks.  I’m now pretty sure that the day I sprinkled fox/coyote urine around and throughout my garden, I enabled the beginning of my modest mole and chipmunk presence, and my full-blown vole infestation.

Fast-forward to late June/early July of this past summer.  The signs of a predator in my garden were once again evident – holes in the planting beds, uprooted plants, even the killing of one of our frogs from our frog ponds.  Again, my assumption was raccoon or possum.  And again, I treated the garden and its perimeter with apex predator pee.  And I re-treated and re-treated, keeping my garden safe from whomever was the digger.  And I simultaneously (and unwittingly) enabled a population explosion of voles in my garden.

It wasn’t until just a few weeks ago that the clouds parted, the dawn broke, and I pulled my head out of my ass.  Over the late summer and early autumn, I had grown lax in my fox/coyote pee application regimen.  As a result, the nocturnal digging returned.  But this time, it seemed more direct, more targeted.  I could see where vole nests had been laid open and their tiny tunnels enlarged.  Evidence of a vole massacre was apparent.  At that moment, I made the decision to allow this predator free run of my garden.  My frog population was intact, the digging mess was easily fixed, and best of all, there were no new vole tunnels or holes to be found anywhere.  At that point, I remembered a terrific Twitter exchange I had with another gardener dealing with her own vole woes.  She mentioned, only half-jokingly, that she was considering attracting cats to her garden with catnip so that they could take on the task of removing her voles.  I joked about it with her.  Now, it wasn’t a joke.  It was a solution.  My unknown predators would play a natural role in the pest elimination process.

Now, most of you who read my material on this site or on other social media platforms know that I am incapable of harming anything that breathes.  But if a natural vole predator were to come along…   Okay, I know it seems a little mercenary, but by allowing this predator (by now, I think I know who he or she is) to do what comes naturally, I’m eliminating (or at least drastically reducing) an unnaturally large vole population in, and restoring nature’s balance to, my ornamental perennial garden.  Since this predator has returned (or shown up – if it’s a different predator than the one doing the digging last year or earlier this summer), none of my frogs have been harmed and the remaining pockets of vole activity seem to be disappearing.  When I put the situation into perspective, the pros easily outweigh the cons.  Periodic tidying of my planting beds or wholesale destruction of my plants by a voracious population of voles.  Kind of a no-brainer.  

And I’ve had time to do some research.  I now believe my nocturnal vole hunter is a mink.  This guy (or gal) is solitary, nocturnal, and incredibly precise in his (her) hunting methodology.  There is evidence that he/she is, at times, entering the vole tunnels themselves (there are instances where there is some minor excavation but significant tunnel enlarging.  A mink will often slip into the tunnels of its quarry when hunting.  I’m really starting to think mink.

In any case, whether mink, raccoon, or possum, this predator is definitely playing a key role in the removal of tunneling pests from my garden.  And he or she is truly doing it with a comparatively minimal amount of collateral damage.

How to Keep Racoons, Possums, Minks out of Your Garden
The signs of a predator digging in my garden for voles.
How to Deal With Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three
I believe this is the work of a mink. The vole tunnels have been partially excavated then "widened" as if to accommodate the larger body of the hunting mink.
How to Deal with Moles Voles and Chipmunks Three
Since this predator has entered the garden, evidence of remaining vole activity has diminished significantly.

What would an article like ‘How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three” be without a couple of RGG product recs.  Check them out below.

Repellex Mole & Gopher Repellent.  The top pick in my “The 10 Best Burrowing Animal Repellents” article of 2021.  This stuff works like a charm at keeping moles, voles, chipmunks, and other tunneling critters from digging in your garden’s dirt.  Its knockout punch: a 20% concentration of castor oil, which is the kryptonite of the burrowing mammal world.  Plus, it’s loaded with a laundry list of other goodies that little diggers find offensive.  Here in “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three,” you got the application technique.  Now you’ve got the goods to go with it.  To learn more about this excellent product, or to order it here, directly from Amazon, please click the #advertisement link.

Repellex Mole & Gopher Repellent

Click here to learn more or to order

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My own 24-pound bucket of Repellex Mole & Gopher Repellent. This amazing product is incredibly effective at preventing the tunneling activities of moles, voles, and chipmunks.

I Must Garden Mole & Vole Repellent.  This stuff was an extremely close second on my Top 10 repellents list.  Like Repellex Mole & Gopher Repellent, this product packs a hefty punch of castor oil at a 20% concentration.  And, like the Repellex product, it’s got lots of other ingredients that little digging mammals can’t stand.  An excellent product.  Use it according to the plan outlined here in “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three,” and drive the invaders from your land.  To learn more about it, or to order it right here, directly from Amazon, please click the #advertisement link.

I Must Garden Mole & Vole Repellent

Click here to learn more or to order

#advertisement

Here's one of my own 4-pound jugs of I Must Garden Mole & Vole Repellent. I buy it either in this size, or by the 10-pound sack. Excellent product.

Au Revoir

That’s it for “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks Three,” and for a big part of my mole/vole/chipmunk troubles, as well.  I’m starting to sit sort of pretty, so to speak, in my garden when it comes to the elimination of my tunneling garden pests.  The mole and chipmunk populations are essentially nonexistent and the vole population is in sharp decline.  I can attribute these conditions to the combination of a few different factors.  The one-two punch of my site-specific repair/repel methodology and my broad-spectrum application of repellent is an important reason behind this happy state of affairs.  A more important reason, however, may be the arrival (or return) of an assertive and effective nocturnal predator to my garden.  I’m really hoping that the combination of all three of these factors will result in a pest-free garden. 

For my tunneling pests, a permanent “Goodbye” may soon be in order.  For us – you, my dear readers, and me – it’s simply “Until we meet again.”  And that will be when I publish my next article.  Which will be shortly.  Since I’ve written so extensively about my mole/vole/chipmunk problem, I’ve grown rather fond of the topic.  I’m thinking of including a “Part Four” to this article.  You see, I’ve just discovered a research paper about a young man, recently discovered in the wilds of Upstate New York, raised by voles… 

(Please click these links to read Part One and Part Two of this article.  And please click here to see my top 10 mole, vole, and chipmunk repellent picks.  Finally, please click here to read my article about keeping individual plants from being devoured by voles and chipmunks – it’s packed with useful info and an excellent product rec.)

Thank you so much for your readership.  Once again, it is dearly appreciated.  Have a great week ahead, and as always, Cheers, and Happy Gardening!

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2 thoughts on “How to Deal with Moles, Voles, and Chipmunks in the Garden – Part Three: Garden-wide Eviction”

  1. I would never have thought about a mink ! Thank goodness he found your smorgasbord of vole delights. I hope he keeps them under control. I understand they are always hungry , so keep him well fed!

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