Misting and Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids
Misting and watering Phalaenopsis orchids sufficiently and correctly helps ensure that these exotic beauties stay healthy, happy, and blooming full-on.
By John G. Stamos
Table of Contents
Misting and Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids: A Moth Orchid Introduction with Some Really Helpful Info
Phalaenopsis orchid appearance: Look for 'em in the potato chips aisle.
Relax, sports fans, this one’s not too terribly long. This intro is actually the longest part, and it’s only here to give you some basic Phalaenopsis orchid facts that’ll help the misting and watering regimen outlined in the article make better sense to you.
So, yep, just like the sign says, Phalaenopsis orchids (“Phals,” for short) are moth orchids, and moth orchids are Phalaenopsis orchids. And they’re the most popular orchids in the retail orchid trade. They’re generally sold year round in nurseries and big box grocery and home improvement stores, and are exceptionally heavily marketed and copiously displayed for purchase around the Easter holiday and Mother’s Day. Their appearance is beautifully striking and extremely exotic. They’re monopodial plants,¹ meaning they’ve got one root system, one root crown, and one main stem that causes them to grow upward following a non-branching, central path, and growing taller by adding new leaves every year at the top of their main stems. They’ve got fairly wide, fairly flat, obovate leaves that are dark glossy green, and are positioned opposite from one another as they ascend and grow from the plant’s main stem. They’ve got comparatively long flower stems, known as spikes, that emerge from the plant’s main stem between individual leaves and hold multiple flowers, which can remain on each spike for two, three, or more months. Each flower² is flat and has a tube-like structure called a column, which sticks out horizontally from about its center, and houses the plant’s reproductive organs (both boy and girl parts are in there, kiddos). Right below the column, and attached to it, is a little lip, or labellum, that sort of sticks out and pouts, and helps give Phalaenopsis orchid blooms their exotic look. The lip is surrounded by three sepals (a dorsal sepal on top, and two lateral sepals pointing out to the sides and slightly downward), and two petals that sit like big mouse ears behind the column and lip and in front of the sepals. There’s really nothing quite like a Phalaenopsis orchid flower – they’re absolutely gorgeous. But maybe the Phalaenopsis orchid’s most distinctive feature – at least from a physiological standpoint – is its cluster of aerial roots that emerge from the plant’s stem/crown below the leaves. These appear as twisted, tube-like, whitish/grayish green “fingers” that rise up from the surface of the planting medium in the orchid’s pot and appear to be reaching around in the air for something to grab.
You’ll know Phalaenopsis orchids when you see them because they’re so incredibly popular at so many big box stores, and because their appearance is so distinctive. Plus, they’re the ones next to the Cheetos and Reese’s Peanut Butter Eggs at Easter time. Below are a few shots of some of mine to help you out with the ID.
Misting and watering Phalaenopsis orchids: Understand how to do it by understanding the plant itself.
Phalaenopsis is a genus in the Orchidaceae plant family containing somewehere around 70 different species, most of which are native to the humid tropical rainforests of the Philippines and Indonesia.³ (Right away, you should be getting an idea of their ideal growing conditions and moisture needs based on the climatic sitch in their natural environment.) The most critical point concerning misting and watering Phalaenopsis orchids, and the one that should drive your own Phal misting and watering game plan, has to do with one overarching fact about Phalaenopsis orchid physiology: Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytes – they grow on the surfaces of other plants.⁴ Particularly on the trunks of trees, where they attach themselves to the bark and nestle themselves into its grooves, or simply grab onto its smoother areas like a house spider hugs a bedroom wall. And how do they accomplish these feats of epiphytic clinging acrobatics? Bingo. With their amazing aerial roots.
Some important Phalaenopsis orchid aerial root facts to keep in mind. A Phal’s aerial roots (those twisted “fingers” are actually known as the aerial root system’s root tips)⁵ are coated in a sticky, whitish/grayish, epidermal (skin-like) structure called the velamen, which protects the roots’ interior cells from potentially damaging UV rays, prevents transpirational water loss from occurring in the roots, shields each root’s cortex and stele (the slender, vascular, central part of the root) from mechanical damage, and, of course, allows those roots to do their clinging.⁵⁻¹¹ And although they’re the critical players in the act of securing the plant’s place on its favorite tree trunk (by virtue of the clingy stickiness of their velamen layer), a Phal’s aerial roots do a lot more than just help it to stick to a tree trunk. Below are a few of the critical functions of a Phalaenopsis orchid’s aerial roots. Recognizing and understanding these functions will help inform your own Phal misting and watering process.
- They are photosynthetic, so, just like the orchid’s leaves, they’re able to convert sunlight to food and energy for the plant (albeit to a lesser degree than the leaves). Since Phal aerial roots are photosynthetic, they also create oxygen and utilize oxygen when exposed to sunlight. This ability prevents the roots from becoming hypoxic (oxygen deprived).¹²⁻¹³
- Through their amazing, sticky velamen, a Phal’s aerial roots absorb water directly, plus, they absorb atmospheric moisture (humidity in the air) and atmospheric nutrients. When a Phal’s aerial roots become wet, they appear green in color as a result of the velamen becoming clearer (while its swelling and absorbing clear water) and revealing the root’s underlying photosynthetic structures (chloroplasts and chlorophyll), which are green. When a Phal’s aerial roots appear green after being watered, it’s a sign that they’re healthy and functional.⁵⁻¹¹
- The ONLY way a Phalaenopsis orchid’s aerial roots absorb water is through direct water content with them from rain or watering, or from the absorption of moisture (humidity/misting) from the air. They don’t absorb water from the depths of soil of any kind.⁵⁻¹¹
- A Phal’s aerial roots contain structures called pneumatodes, which allow them to engage in a gaseous exchange with the atmosphere of their environment.¹⁴
Some leaf and flower spike info to keep in mind for the misting and watering Phalaenopsis orchids playbook. Remember that most Phalaenopsis orchids are at home in tropical rainforest environments. This means that ALL parts of the orchid – not just its aerial roots – are exposed to, and thrive, in a substantially humid atmosphere. So it makes sense that the following are true:
- As in the case of its aerial roots, a Phalaenopsis orchid’s leaves absorb water, although to a lesser degree.¹⁷
- A Phal’s flower spikes also absorb water (also to a lesser degree than its roots).¹⁷
Misting and Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids Correctly Starts with Using the Right Pot and the Right Potting Medium
The right pot.
Phalaenopsis orchids grow on tree trunks with much of the surface area of their roots exposed to air. But unless your planning on growing your own Phal on the side of a tree trunk, you’re going to want to grow it in a pot. Thankfully, if you buy a Phal from one of the above-mentioned big box establishments, it’s going to already be growing in a pot. More than likely, it’ll actually be potted in a transparent extremely breathable and extremely well-draining plastic pot liner with slits, slots, and/or holes running up its sides and on its bottom. And the whole thing – orchid and breathable plastic liner – will be sitting in some kind of expensive-looking decorative ceramic pot with no drainage capabilities, and that’s not good for anything except trying to hustle Phalaenopsis orchids to guileless and well-meaning Easter and Mother’s Day retail shoppers. (Actually, I’m being a little hard on the hole-less ceramic pot. You’ll see a little later that it actually can have some use.) The concept of the “extremely breathable and extremely well-draining” part of the plastic liner that your new Phal is growing in is the one to embrace. Remember all that stuff I told you in the previous section about a Phal’s aerial roots absorbing water and atmospheric moisture from direct contact, and engaging in “breathing” (with their pneumatodes) as they bask in glorious atmospheric exposure? Guess what. The “extremely breathable, extremely well-draining” part of potting a Phal orchid is what allows its aerial roots to accomplish all of this.
At this point, you can do one of two things with your new orchid:
- Leave your new Phal in its plastic liner and try to nurture it there going forward (which is what I did for almost two years with my miniature Phal until I recently moved it into a bigger, breathable, extremely well-draining pot, where it’s much, much happier).
OR (and what I recommend)
- Move your new Phal into a roomier pot (6″ in diameter is generally perfect for accoommodating a standard-sized Phal for most or all of its lifetime) designed specifically for orchids and their ubiquitous aerial roots. This type of pot will not only have all of the proper aerating qualities of the generous openings it’ll have running up and down its sides and all the way around its entire circumference, it will actually be attractive. You can purchase such containers at the retail level relatively inexpensively. Or, if you’re like me and you assign virtually no value of any kind to your time, you can make your own nifty breathable and well-draining orchid pot. If you’ve got a plastic pot that’s big enough (6″ in diameter), a drill, a big drill bit, and around an hour of not having anything better to do, you can whip one of these homemade bad boys right up. Bingo bango. Below are pics of two of my own orchid pots – one store-bought and the other homemade.
The right potting medium.
This one’s critical, folks. If you buy a potted Phal at the retail level, it’s going to be potted in one of two types of potting medium: a sphagnum moss-based mixture or a tree bark (usually pine bark) chip-based mixture. And if you transplant that orchid, those are going to be your choices for its new medium. I HIGHLY recommend the second choice. Why? Two reasons: 1) Phalaenopsis orchids grow on the trunks of trees. Which are coated in – you guessed it – tree bark. So, duuhhh. 2) A tree bark chip-based medium is literally comprised almost entirely of individual tree bark chips, which are large (compared to the tiny and fine sphagnum moss particulate), and which allow plenty of air circulation and free water flow (and even a degree of sunlight penetration) throughout its composition. This gives the sections of the Phal’s aerial root system that are positioned further down in the medium (beneath its top surface) and anchoring the plant in place much better exposure to water and air and yes, even sunlight, than the finer, denser, less-aerated sphagnum moss-based stuff. It also allows for much faster evaporation of excess water, which virtually eliminates the possibility of waterlogging the Phal’s aerial roots. I will tell you that I successfully cared for an orchid for four years that was potted in the sphagnum moss stuff. Its watering requirements differed from those of my bark chip guys, and the care plan was more challenging. I’m telling you, girls and boys, grow your Phals in the bark chip stuff.
The Misting and Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids Game Plan: Let's Talk Watering First
The water itself.
Alright, guys, we’re down to the nitty-gritty here. So, the water…
I use tap water. I know other orchid growers who like to use distilled water (which can be impractical and expensive, particularly if you’ve got a shitload of orchids that need to be hydrated) to water their little darlings, and I know plenty of others who, like me, use the stuff that issues forth from their kitchen sink faucets. Your call. But I can say that I’ve had no problems whatsoever using tap water. Been working great for years.
- Water temperature. When it comes to caring for my Phals, I’m a firm believer in trying to keep the growing environment that I provide to them as consistent with the environment of their native tropical rainforest habitat as possible. Since I haven’t heard of any cases of ice melt trickling down from icicles dangling in the tree canopy in Indonesia, I don’t use cold water to irrigate my Phals. Room temperature is perfect. (Some people swear that they water their orchids via the administering of a couple of ice cubes per week. I’m not even going to address that.)
- How much water per serving? On watering day, each of my Phals, all growing in 6″, well-aerated, well-draining pots, get either 1.5 quarts or 3 quarts of water (depending on the dryness level of their potting medium) during each watering. It almost always ends up being 1.5 quarts, almost never 3 quarts, on watering day. Note: This amount pertains to the watering process I currently and successfully use – which you’ll read about below – when I water my Phalaenopsis orchids. The alternative process I describe below requires the use of a container that’s big enough, and filled with enough water, to completely submerge the plant’s pot.
The watering process.
- Watering process 1 (the one that I use). Pretty basic here, gang. I take my potted Phal and place it and its pot in a large plastic saucer that’s 3 or 4 inches deep and about 12 or 14 inches wide. Once the plant and it’s pot are in place, it’s Go Time. I use a 1.5-quart watering can with a long, narrow spout (so I can direct the water flow accurately) that’s completely filled to the brim to totally saturate my orchid’s roots and potting medium. That narrow spout allows me to direct the water flow so it completely saturates the plant’s aerial roots and the bark chip potting medium. Whatever amount of that 1.5 quarts of water that’s not absorbed by the plant and the bark chips flows freely through the voids in the orchid’s pot and collects in the big plastic saucer. A single 1.5-quart douching is almost always enough, but if the plant and its medium seemed particularly dry at the outset of the watering process, I’ll hit it again with another 1.5 quarts. The key is to saturate the hell out of all visible parts of the Phal’s aerial roots and its potting mix. When I’ve finished giving it all the water it’s going to get, I pick the Phal and its holey, dribbling pot up out of the water in the saucer and hold it over the saucer for a minute or two until most of the excess H₂O runs out. Presto. Done.
Watering process 2 (the one I have used, but don’t use now). This one’s even easier. Get a container of water big enough and deep enough to totally submerge the orchid and its pot to a point where the top surface of the potting medium and any and all protruding aerial roots are submerged, and stick the orchid and its pot right in. Let it sit submerged for several seconds, and then pull the whole thing out and let it drain. Now, remember that ceramic pot that your newly purchased big box store Phalaenopsis orchid and it’s plastic, well-draining, well-aerated pot liner came in? You know, the expensive-looking, decorative, non-draining ceramic pot that I said was useless? Well, now you’ve got a use for it (assuming you’re still growing your Phal in its original potting paraphernalia). If your Phal is still growing in its well-draining and well-aerated plastic pot liner, and the whole thing is still sitting in that useless, non-draining ceramic pot, simply fill the useless, non-draining ceramic pot with water so that the orchid, its aerial roots, its potting medium, and its well-draining, well-aerated plastic pot liner are just entirely submerged. Let it sit in the water for several seconds, pull it out, and let it drain. Done.
Watering frequency.
This mostly depends on the potting medium you’re using.
- Bark chip-based media. If you’re using what I use and recommend, which is a bark chip-based medium, giving your Phals a good drenching as described above once per week should be perfect. I water all of mine once per week, and what I find when when I follow this method and this schedule is that each plant’s potting medium has become “just about dry” by watering day. “Just about dry.” That’s the best way to describe it. It’s not parched, and it’s not really damp. And it’s pretty much the exact condition you’ll want for your Phal’s potting medium when you implement your own watering schedule. Watering them once per week, according to either of the methods I described above, is perfecto mundo.
- Sphagnum moss-based media. This stuff is much finer, much denser, and much more water-retentive than bark chip-based media. Consequently, it takes subsatntially longer to become “just about dry” after being soaked according to either of my two above-described watering processes. If your Phals are growing in this stuff, and you water them according to one of the two processes I’ve outlined here, you’re going to want to wait at least 10 days to 2 weeks before you soak them again.
In addition to the type of potting medium in use, watering frequency could also depend, at least in theory, on how well (or how poorly) your Phalaenopsis orchid is flowering. One of the primary objectives, after all, of correctly misting and watering Phalaenopsis orchids is getting them to generate their mesmerizing blooms. I’ve had it on fairly good account from other orchid growers that low Phal flower power can be a result of the plant not receiving enough water. This does make sense from a biological standpoint. The flowers of any plant are highly specialized leaves. And, like other plant leaves, water escapes from their surfaces through their stomata during the process of transpiration.¹¹, ¹⁵⁻¹⁷ Flowering takes up a lot of a Phalaenopsis orchid’s energy. If a particular Phal hasn’t been receiving enough water, generating flowers for this poor guy could be the deal breaker. Not only would producing flowers take up the plant’s energy, but it would also mean additional water loss for the plant. So, no water, no flowers, no dice. For what it’s worth, I’ve never adjusted my once-weekly orchid watering regimen, and my orchids have never failed to produce blooms. But in the case of your own misting and watering Phalaenopsis orchids regimen, if your Phal’s not performing in the flower department, you can definitely try increasing its watering frequency.
Fertilizing.
Because of the physiological traits of the Phalaenopsis orchid’s aerial root system, you’ll be feeding your own Phal a liquid fertilizer, and you’ll be mixing it in with the very water you use in implementing one of the two watering processes I outlined above. In either case, mix in the correct amount of fertilizer, per its manufacturer’s directions, for the amount of water you’ll be using. Since I use 1.5 quarts of water, administered directly from a 1.5-quart watering can (according to the first of the two watering processes outlined above), measuring and mixing the appropriate amount of liquid fertilizer is really straightforward. If you’re using the submerging method outlined in the second watering process, you’ll need to know how much water you’ll be using in order to adequately submerge your Phal, and mix in the appropriate amount of fertilizer, as directed by the manufacturer,
When I fertilize my Phals (again, in conjunction with the first of the two watering methods I described above), I make sure to directly saturate all exposed aerial roots and the potting medium, just as if I’m performing my regular watering.
How often do I fertilize my Phalaenopsis orchids? Once per month. It never varies. Depending on the manufacturer’s directions of the fertilizing product you opt to use for your own Phals, your own fertilizing schedule may vary.
Misting and Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids: The Misting Part
What do I use to mist my Phalaenopsis orchid?
Two things:
- Clear water at room temperature. Some orchid growers I know insist on using distilled water. Whatever. My misting water comes straight out of the tap.
- A spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle. You’ll want one that allows you to adjust the fineness of the spray. Sounds expensive, but it ain’t.
Which parts of my Phalaenopsis orchid should I mist?
Short answer, at least from my standpoint: all of them. I’ll say it again: These plants are native to an extremely humid environment, and I like to do everything I can to approximate that environment for the ones I grow right here in the middle of the U.S. of A. They want humidity, I give ’em humidity. Besides, all parts of a Phalaenopsis orchid (except the flowers) are capable of absorbing water – roots, leaves, and flower spikes – so why not blast away with the spray bottle?
- Aerial roots. It’s absolutely critical that, when you mist, you mist all exposed aerial root sections. Remember, having direct contact with water and atmospheric moisture, i.e. humidity, is the only way that an orchid’s aerial roots can absorb moisture. So, mist the hell out of those aerial roots, and watch them turn from whitish gray to green right before your eyes, as their velamen absorbs the clear water in the mist you apply. It’s pretty cool to see, and, of course, it’s critical for your Phal’s health.
- Leaves. Yep. Mist the leaves. Tops and undersides. They’re capable of absorbing water. (although not nearly to the degree of the aerial roots). And remember that whole humid natural environment thing? A Phalaenopsis orchid grows on a tree trunk in a steamy jungle, so it’s bathed in humidity – ALL parts of it. So, there’s that. Some orchid growers bitch about tap water leaving marks on their Phals’ pristine, glossy green foliage. Well boo-hoo-hoo. Who said life was fair? Misting your Phal – all parts of your Phal – is good for it. So, mist those leaves, baby!
- Flower spikes. Yep. Mist them, too. Like its aerial roots and leaves, a Phal’s flower spikes can absorb water. Not to a huge degree, but still… Mist those flower spikes, dudes and dude-ettes, mist ’em good.
- Flowers. Why not? Actually, this is sort of a loaded question. Heavily misting a Phalaenopsis orchid’s flowers – particularly with tap water – can potentially result in some slight marking or discoloration of an individual bloom’s sepals, petals, and/or lips. But the operative phraseology here is heavily misting. I mist my Phals’ flowers (because of the whole approximating their high-humidity natural habitat thing), but I do it with my spray bottle’s adjustable nozzle set to its absolute finest setting. As a result, my own orchid flowers have never stained or discolored due to my misting activities.
How often should I mist my Phalaenopsis orchid?
Good question. And the answer is… it depends. You could literally mist a Phalaenopsis orchid every day, and it wouldn’t be too often. These plants love moisture, and they obtain that moisture when it comes into direct content with their aerial roots (and, to a lesser degree, their leaves and flower spikes). And some individual Phals may need more regular misting than others, particularly in cases with plants that have fewer functioning aerial roots. But sometimes practicality trumps optimality. There may be times and situations when misting your Phal is inconvenient or impossible. (So, if your Phalaenopsis orchid is temporarily stationed in front of an open electrical panel, maybe take a pass on misting it until you can move it to a better spot. The misting can wait. Right?) And generally speaking, if you’re watering your Phal regularly and sufficiently, it’ll definitely be fine if it’s not misted every day. In fact, I usually mist my own Phals only twice per week (including the misting I give their leaves, flower spikes, and flowers immediately after I water them) at the most. This misting schedule has worked beautifully for them.
Product Recommendations to Bolster Your Misting and Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids Game Plan
Misting and watering Phalaenopsis orchids are critically important steps in their care, but they’re not the only steps. Providing these amazing tropical wonders with the right growing medium and proper nutrition is also essential to their health and well-being. The products below are the ones I use to grow and care for my own Phals, and I wholeheartedly recommend both of them.
Espoma Organic Orchid Mix. Espoma Organic Orchid Mix is the perfect potting medium for my orchids. It’s formulated from aged pine bark, horticultural charcoal, perlite, limestone (for the adjustment of pH), and yucca extract. Since orchids are epiphytic – they grow in the grooves and fissures in, as well as on the smooth surfaces of, the bark of trunks of large trees with their roots substantially exposed to the air – the light and breathable formulation of Espoma Organic Orchid Mix perfectly approximates each orchid’s natural growing medium. My own Phalaenopsis orchids have thrived and bloomed for years while growing in this excellent potting medium. I just can’t say enough about this wonderful organic potting mix. Click the #advertisement link to learn more about this excellent product, or to order it right here, directly from Amazon.
Espoma Organic Orchid! Espoma Organic Orchid! is, as in the case of every Espoma product I’ve ever used, absolutely remarkable. It’s the perfect food for my orchids, bat flower, (and African violets), and other tropical plants that have big-time blooming capabilities and also like to spend huge chunks of the year, if not the whole year, indoors. This fast-uptake, liquid organic product delivers all the nutrition my plants need. Its N-P-K of 1-3-1 provides the perfect ratio of nutrients with just a smidge more phosphorous (but not too much) that ensures that plants that were born to flower, and flower big, reach their blooming potential. Plus, there are massive populations of colonizing, beneficial microbes in Espoma Organic Orchid! that help boost and maintain overall plant and soil health. Good stuff, right here, kiddos. It’s got the exactly the same formulation as Espoma Organic Violet! African violet food, and I’ve used the two products interchangeably with great success on both orchids and African violets. Click the #advertisement link to learn more about this excellent product, or to order it right here, directly from Amazon.
Bibliography/For Further Reading
Below is the bibliography/”For Further Reading” list for “Misting and Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids.” It’s a list of the cited works that assisted me in writing the article, and that’s helped me with my own original and ongoing Phalaenopsis orchid research. As always, each entry is listed in link form, so you can click on any one of them to read its content.
- “Monopodial.” Wikipedia, p.1.
- “Anatomy of an Orchid.” Brasilian Orchid Organisation, p.1.
- “Phalaenopsis.” Wikipedia, pp. 1-9.
- “Epiphyte.” Wikipedia, pp. 1-6.
- “Orchid Roots.” American Orchid Society, All About Orchids, pp. 1-6.
- “Velamen.” Wikipedia, p. 1.
- “Cortex (botany).” Wikipedia, pp. 1-2.
- Kim, Huijin and Jang, Jinwoo and Seomun, Subhin and Yoon, Youngdae and Jang, Geupil. “Division of cortical cells is regulated by auxin in Arabidopsis roots,” Frontiers in Plant Science, Volume 13 – 2022, 2022, 10.3389/fpls.2022.953225, 1664-462X.
- “Stele (biology).” Wikipedia, pp. 1-3.
- “Transpiration.” Wikipedia, pp. 1-8.
- Loreti E, Perata P. The Many Facets of Hypoxia in Plants. Plants (Basel). 2020 Jun 12;9(6):745. doi: 10.3390/plants9060745. PMID: 32545707; PMCID: PMC7356549.
- “Pneumatode.” Wikipedia, pp. 1-3.
- Davies KL, Stpiczyńska M, Gregg A. Nectar-secreting floral stomata in Maxillaria anceps Ames & C. Schweinf. (Orchidaceae). Ann Bot. 2005 Aug;96(2):217-27. doi: 10.1093/aob/mci182. Epub 2005 Jun 10. PMID: 15953790; PMCID: PMC4246882.
- “Stoma.” Wikipedia, pp. 1-12.
- “Watering.” American Orchid Society, Orchid Care, pp. 1-5.
Satisfy Your Orchid Lust: Visit the American Orchid Society
In case you haven’t guessed by now, I’m an orchid lover. Specifically, I’m a Phalaenopsis orchid lover. I’ve been growing Phals successfully for over twelve years, and I’ve currently got four (including one miniature Phal and one full-sized recent addition) living in my house with me. There’s just something so mesmerizing and exotic about these remarkable plants… I guess it’s fair to say I’m addicted to orchids. So, it shouldn’t be a stretch when I tell you that I’m also a card carrying member of the American Orchid Society. If you’re already an orchid lover, or if you dream of one day becoming an orchid lover, I highly recommend visiting their website, and I also highly recommend becoming a member. Membership includes 13 issues per year of Orchid Magazine, free OrchidPro Online Orchid Software, discounts on orchids and supplies from vendors across the country, free webinars, and much, much more. The American Orchid Society is a wonderful organization, and an incredible resource for those with a passion for orchids. Click here to visit.
Misting and Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids Is Easy when You Know How, and Now You Know How
Well, gals and guys, you’ve got my misting and watering Phalaenopsis orchids playbook in your hot little hands. You now know the relevant facts about Phals themselves. You know what they look like. You know their native habitat, growing conditions, and growth habits. You know about their most important anatomical and physiological characteristics, and can apply that knowledge when you’re misting and watering your own Phal. You’ve got some absolutely stellar product recommendations, an excellent reading list to help you satisfy any lingering Phalaenopsis orchid curiosity, and you’ve got a link to The American Orchid Society’s website. At this point, I got nothin’ left.
As always, dear readers and subscribers, I thank you for your kind interest and your readership.
Cheers, and Happy Gardening!
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I needed this information to care for a beautiful orchid I received as a gift. So informative, thank you!
Thanks for having a read of it, Lisa. I’m really glad you found it informative. I wish you the best of luck with your new orchid. Please let me know how it behaves. Thanks once again.