5 Awesome Perennials You Can Plant Right Now
Still have frost and cold in your zone? Not a problem. Just get these plants in the ground and let them do the rest. Your teeth might be chattering, but the cold weather is no match for these 5 awesome perennials you can plant right now.
It’s super-early spring and it’s still pretty cold here in Michiana Shores. Just a few days back, temps dipped down into the low twenties. In zone 5B/6A, my zone, early spring always feels like winter. If you’re a gardener, and you’re in the same climate boat that I’m in, you might be thinking that, since it is spring (at least from the calender’s point of view), it’d be great to get some new stuff planted in your garden. I know that’s where my head’s at. It’s bleak out there. Let’s see some green. Maybe even some color. Let’s get this garden party started! But it’s still colder than hell. What new plants can we put in the ground that won’t get wasted by the cold?
Let’s get down to it, sports fans. There are tons of choices, but I’m going with my faves. Five of them, to be exact. I’ve had remarkable success with each of these perennials, and all were in the ground before the end of March in the year they were planted. Each of these will give you early foliage, and early color in the form of late winter/early spring blooms. Some are fairly tall and wide, some are diminutive, and some are groundcover. You’ll want to plant some of them as reasonably mature (first or second year plants) from pots, and you’ll want to plant a couple of them in bareroot form. All of them, in my zone, can be planted as early as mid March. And none of them fear the cold of late winter and early spring in Michiana Shores.
1. Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
The basics.
Height – 30″-36″. Spread – 30″-36″. Light – partial to full shade. Bloom color – generally, shades of pink, red, or white. (Mine are old fashioned white bleeding hearts, Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’ and they’ve got pure white blooms). Bloom time – May through June. Foliage – herbaceous, and somewhat ephemeral. A great addition of color in mid spring through early summer. Hardy in zone 3 – zone 8/9. Caution: all parts of this plant are toxic to humans and animals.
Notes from the field.
I planted my two old fashioned white bleeding hearts as bareroots in mid March of last year. If you’re thinking about bleeding hearts for your own garden, I suggest ordering these in bareroot form from a reputable online nursery. There are a number of these nurseries which still have bleeding hearts in stock, so you’ve still got time if you want to get some. I ordered mine from an excellent online nursery and got them in the ground as soon as they arrived. They came in the form of robust bareroot balls and started sprouting within a week of planting them. By mid summer, they start to tire out. They’re herbaceous, but also a little on the ephemeral side. By the end of September, there’s almost no discernable green in their stems and foliage. I left mine intact until there was absolutely no sign of visible green in any of their stems and foliage before I cut them back to the ground. I waited to do this until mid/late autumn because I wanted to give the plants as much opportunity to accumulate food and energy for the following spring. If there’s even a little bit of green, they’re still absorbing sunlight and storing energy. This year, they began sprouting in even healthier and more vigorous fashion than last year. I’m expecting bigger and more robust plants this year.
Note: The methods I outline/describe of acquiring and planting all of the perennials in this article do not include propagation from seed, cuttings, division, etc. Obviously, these methods are extremely viable and are often utililized by experienced gardeners and commercial growers and nurseries, alike. My experience in these areas is limited (though I have propagated a number of my perennials through division, and have even grown one of my bedded New York asters from seed). I’m offering, in this article, descriptions/explanations of the methods with which I’m most familiar.
Suggestions for planting old fashioned bleeding hearts in late winter/early spring.
- Plant them as soon as they arrive. If you order your plants in mid winter as I did, the nursery will ship them to you at the appropriate planting time for your hardiness zone. Plant them as soon as you get them. I planted mine with the crown of each root ball just slightly below the soil’s surface. Maybe 1/4″, tops. Then I applied approximately 1/2″ to 3/4″ of wood chip mulch on top of everything. They sprouted right up through these minimal, yet protective layers.
A note about my soil and planting methods: Because the ground substrate of my land is sand (we live on the shores of Lake Michigan), when I built my garden I introduced a good healthy layer (generally between 10″ and 48″) of slightly acidic (a pH of about 6.5) organic garden soil to each of my planting beds when I first dug them out. Within this layer of soil, I specifically excavate a dedicated hole for each plant that goes into every planting bed. And I fill each of these dedicated holes with a slightly acidic (also with a pH of about 6.5) potting soil which has got a slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of .10-.08-.06 in its mixture. This set-up holds up well for about a year (although the pH level doesn’t really change, the level of fertilizer in the mixture – which isn’t a substantial amount to begin with – does deplete over time). At that point, I usually do a quick soil analysis to check pH and N-P-K values and I amend each plant’s specific soil with the appropriate fertilizer.
- Soil. Old fashioned bleeding hearts like a slightly acidic soil that is moist, but well-drained. I test my soil’s pH in the early spring (and since I got my new 4-way soil analysis meter, it’s even easier to do), and have found that it remains slightly acidic. For my bleeding hearts, amending soil pH is therefore unnecessary. I will, however, amend my bleeding hearts’ soil this year with a really high quality organic fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 5-3-3. I’m going to wait for them to sprout a bit more and begin to leaf out, and then I’ll fertilize. And my product of choice? Espoma Plant-tone. I use this fertilizer for many, many other plants in my garden.
- Water. These plants like moist soil. Because I’ve got a sandy substrate (rather than clay), the soil in my planting beds is relatively fast-draining. For this reason, I water my bleeding hearts fairly frequently. It’s important to make sure that their soil remains moist, but not soggy. If their roots are in soggy soil and standing water, these plants will die.
- Pruning and/or deadheading. There’s no need to deadhead these plants. After the first wave of blooms showed up on mine in May, they bloomed a second time in late June. You won’t need to prune this plant until it turns completely brown in the fall. At that point, cut it flat to the ground.
I love Espoma’s organic fertilizers. Plant-tone is the one I use for the majority of the flowering plants in my garden. It’s got an N-P-K ratio of 5-3-3 and is a great all-purpose organic fertilizer. It works perfectly for plants like corydalis, viola, dianthus, shasta daisies, and primroses, to name a few. I’ll be using it this spring for three of the five plants discussed in this article (and have, in fact, already used it for two of them), as well as for many others in my garden. Order this product here, from Amazon, by clicking the #advertisement link.
I bought my Luster Leaf Rapitest 4-way soil analysis meter in February of 2022 and have used it successfully many times to test for soil fertility and pH levels. It also measures sunlight and soil moisture levels. It’s fast, easy to use, convenient, and accurate. By using this device, I’ve been able to determine the necessity of appropriate fertilizer applications and pH amending to the soil of my garden’s perennials. Order it here, conveniently from Amazon, by clicking the #advertisement link.
Before I bought my Luster Leaf Rapitest 4-way soil analysis meter, I used the Rapitest Soil Test Kit. It’s also accurate, but requires a bit more time to use than the Rapitest 4-way meter. It’s still an effective and accurate product, and I highly recommend it. Click the #advertisement link to order it here, from Amazon.
2. Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica)
The basics.
Height – 1′-2′. Spread – 12″ -18″. Light – partial to full shade. Bloom color – vibrant light blue. Foliage – herbaceous and ephemeral. Grows and flowers late winter through mid spring and then dies back until the next year. (By the end of June, they’re basically gone until March of the following spring.) These native wildflowers spread via rhizomes and self-sowing, and fully colonize where they’re planted. Virginia Bluebells are hardy in zones 3 – 8. Bonus: deer and rodents avoid these plants.
Notes from the field.
I planted three individuals in mid-March of last year as bareroots. They grew successfully, though only one flowered. Like the bleeding hearts, this is a plant that’s best planted as a bareroot. Order them from any one of a number of online nurseries. If you hurry, you can still find them available. Now in their second year, mine have expanded and begun to spread out through their rhizomatous growth habit. They are naturalizing/colonizing as expected.
Suggestions for planting Virginia Bluebells in late winter/early spring.
- Plant them as soon as they arrive. One of the benefits of ordering from a reputable online nursery is that your plants will be shipped to you at the proper planting time for your hardiness zone. Get your plants in the ground as soon as they arrive. Mine were delivered in early/mid March, and I planted them immediately. These plants can handle the cold. The bareroots of these plants are thick and sort of tuberous in appearance, and what they are, actually, are thick rhizomes. I planted mine so that the top of the root was approximately 1-1/2″ below the surface of the soil. And as I did with my bleeding hearts, I added approximately 1/2″ – 3/4″ of wood chip mulch over the soil. They sprouted within a week of planting them.
- Soil. These plants like moist soil that’s fairly rich in organic matter. They grow naturally in forests and wooded environments so it follows that they flourish in an organic type of soil. I bedded these plants in the same potting soil I used for my bleeding hearts. This slightly acidic soil contains a slow-release fertilizer. Aside from this, my Virginia Bluebells have yet to be actively fertilized. Once they leaf out a bit more, however, I will apply a topical sprinkling of Espoma Plant-tone.
- Water. Water these natives frequently enough to prevent the soil from drying out. Remember, their natural environment is the forest. They’re never exposed to blazing sun and drought. Think shady and moist for Virginia Bluebells.
- Pruning and/or deadheading. Nope. They’re basically gone by the end of June or early July. If you’d like, cut the dead brown foliage down to the ground. I left mine intact for awhile after it had died back, and by the time I got around to cutting it off it had almost entirely decomposed. I left it in place to serve as compost.
- Companion planting tip. Because these guys are gone so early in the summer, it’s a good idea to have something growing nearby that somewhat overlaps them in terms of growth periods and planting bed space. I didn’t want an empty space in my garden so early in the summer after my bluebells went to sleep. I planted them near a huge, bigleaf hydrangea, a cluster of hostas, and some Biokovo hardy geraniums. All of these really start to hit their stride when the bluebells die back. This dynamic guarantees that there’s no vacant space in that particular part of the garden.
3. Hellebore (Helleborus x hybridus)
The basics.
Height – 24″. Spread – 24″. Light – full shade to partial sun, but can handle more sun in winter. Bloom color – white, red, pink, purple, dark blue, varied. Bloom time – mid/late winter to late spring. Foliage – evergreen. Hardy in zones 4 – 9. This is probably a good time to introduce a quick explanation of nomenclature, both common and botanical. My particular hellebore is commonly called a “Lenten Rose” because it typically is blooming during the Christian Lenten period. Older varieties of Lenten Rose hellebores are classified as Helleborus orientalis. But my Molly’s White lenten rose, is, further, a newer variety of lenten rose. It’s botanical name is Helleborus x hybridus ‘FrostKiss™ Molly’s White.’ Newer variety lenten roses, Helleborus x hybridus, like my Molly’s White, are typically hybrids bred from Helleborus orientalis.
Notes from the field.
I planted my hellebore in the shadiest section of my garden near the end of winter last year. It had already begun to flower when I planted it. I purchased it as a potted specimen and planted it within the last cold days of winter. Since planting it, my Molly’s White has required virtually no attention. Its flowers last for virtually an entire spring season, and its gorgeous foliage remains green and healthy through the coldest months of winter. This is my favorite plant in the garden. My dog’s name was Molly. She passed away in 2001, and she’s always in my thoughts and in my heart. This lovely flowering evergreen is, for me, her namesake. My hellebore possesses an almost ethereal quality. Its beauty is quiet, yet profound. Yep. My favorite plant.
Suggestions for planting hellebores in late winter/early spring.
- Plant them as soon as you get them. I purchased my hellebore from a retail nursery, but quality online nurseries offer them for sale for delivery, as well. Whether they’ve been delivered to you by an online nursery, or you’ve brought them home from your local garden center, there’s a good chance you will have your hellebores in your possession in late winter or early spring. As long as the ground isn’t frozen solid and you’re able to dig a hole, you can plant your hellebores. Again, these plants can handle the cold down to hardiness zone 4. Many local and online nurseries are still offering hellebores for sale at the time of this writing.
- Soil. These plants like a moist, well-drained soil that has a neutral pH or is slightly alkaline. As with all of my other plants, I bedded my hellebore in a potting mix which is slightly acidic and contains a slow release .10-.08-.06 fertilizer. But before I bought my Molly’s White, I’d done some research and learned of helleborus’ soil pH preference. So when I planted it, I added some Espoma Garden Lime to the potting soil in order to bring the pH level up a bit past neutral into slightly alkaline territory (between 7 and 7.5). The slow release fertilizer in the potting soil (which by now has been long exhausted) is the only fertilizer my hellebore has ever received. I don’t plan on doing any additional fertilizing for this plant. The soil in which it’s planted remains slightly alkaline, with an approximate pH of 7.5. If a drop in pH makes it necessary, I’ll top dress its soil with more garden lime.
Espoma Organic Garden Lime is a great product for raising alkalinity levels in soil. It can be mixed with the bedding soil, or used to top dress soil around plants which are already in the ground. I used this to amend my hellebore’s soil. Order this product here, from Amazon, by clicking the #advertisement link.
If you’ve got to take your soil’s pH in the other direction, try Espoma’s Organic Soil Acidifier. I’ve used this product to lower soil pH for plants like my blue hydrangeas and rhododendrons. It’s very effective and allows acid-loving plants like these to better absorb nutrients from fertilizing products. Click the #advertisement link to order it here, from Amazon.
- Water. These plants do like moist soil. as long as it drains well. You can’t water log these guys. If you allow their roots to sit in soggy soil that doesn’t drain, you’ll kill them. I know firsthand of a gardener who drowned her hellebores. (She’ll kill me if I mention her name, so don’t even ask.) Once they’re established, hellebores are fairly drought-tolerant. Mine did fine during the hottest and dryest parts of last summer with very basic watering.
- Pruning and/or deadheading. I did neither all year. A few weeks ago, at the end of winter, I cut off a couple of damaged leaves. In late winter, before your hellebores start shooting up new growth, you can cut each plant’s existing foliage down to its basal growth. My suggestion, however, is to not go to that extreme. Mine has done fine with the very minimal pruning I did in late winter. If necessary, I can remove a few more damaged leaves. But that’s gonna be it.
- Planting options. Right now, I’ve only got one hellebore in my garden. But I’ve seen gardens in which hellebores have been used in group plantings, and the effects were stunning. I may add a few more to my garden this spring. Note: Hellebores may also be successfully planted in the fall.
4. Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata)
The basics. Height – 2″-6″, depending on the variety. Spread – 12″-24″, depending on the variety. Light – full sun. Bloom color – depends on the variety. Bloom time – spring. Foliage – evergreen, semi-evergreen. Hardy in zones 2 – 9, depending on the variety. The two varieties I grow/have grown in my garden are hardy in zones 3 – 8/9. Phlox subulata spreads, through a stoloniferous growth habit, at a moderate rate. It takes an individual plant a couple of years to reach its full, mature size. You’ll get incredible spring color and rich, green, mat-like growth from this hardy, sun-loving groundcover.
Notes from the field.
There are a few different ways you can acquire and plant these guys. You can order them in bareroot clumps or as small, potted individuals from online nurseries and then plant them in these forms. Or you can buy them directly from your local nursery in potted form, usually in a couple of different pot sizes. If you live in my hardiness zone, you can get these plants in the ground in late winter. Creeping phlox can also be planted in the fall. I can tell you, without equivocation, that these plants need sunlight, and that they don’t like to be smothered by taller, broader-leafed plants. Last year, I killed three of my creeping phlox by planting them way too close to (and basically under) heuchera and hostas. The broad leaves of these two plants grew out to smother the phlox, preventing them from getting sunlight and air circulation. For me it was a hard lesson learned. Your takeaway: when you plant them, make sure they’ll have air and sunlight.
Suggestions for planting creeping phlox in late winter/early spring.
- Plant them as soon as you get them. Again, if your plants are coming from a reputable online nursery, you’re going to get them at the proper planting time for your zone. Which will more than likely be late winter or early spring. The same goes for plants purchased at your local retail nursery. They’re going to have them available for you to plant when the time is right for your zone. The bottom line here is, these plants are ready to go into the ground while it’s still fairly cold. They’re really cold hardy. So when you get them, plant them.
- Soil. These plants like well-drained, neutral or slightly alkaline soil. I planted mine in my usual slightly acidic potting soil which I amended slightly with Espoma Garden Lime. Aside from their initial dose of built-in fertilizer in the potting soil, these plants have never been fertilized. If they continue to grow and thrive, I probably will not fertilize them.
- Water. Creeping phlox is really drought-tolerant. Even after the hottest and dryest summer days, they remained green, healthy, and wilt-free. As with the other plants on this list, soggy, non-draining soil will kill creeping phlox.
- Pruning and/or deadheading. These plants flower profusely in spring. Once they’ve stopped flowering, they can be pruned back to a manageable shape. This will allow for new growth over the summer, which will in turn set the stage for more profuse flowering the following spring. Deadheading? Are you serious? Even if it made sense to deadhead hundreds of individual spent blooms (which it doesn’t), there’s no chance in hell that I, personally, would spend even one minute trying to chop tiny dead flowers off of a plant that’s two inches tall. Would you?
5. Primrose (Primula acaulis and Primula vulgaris)
The basics. Height – 6″-12″, depending on the variety. Spread – 8″-12″, depending on the variety. Light – full shade to full sun. Bloom color – depending on the variety. Bloom time – spring, and sometimes again in fall (depending on the variety). Foliage – evergreen, semi-evergreen. Hardy in zones 4 – 8. Both primula v. and primula a. have a moderate/medium growth rate. It can take one of these cuties a couple of years to reach its full height and spread. These are charming, tough little plants that are not afraid of the cold, or of anything else, for that matter.
Notes from the field.
I purchased some of my primroses from a local nursery, and some from three separate, highly reputable online nurseries. All of them were in the ground by the end of the second week of March, with the exception of my Cottage Double Whites. The excellent online nursery which sold them to me was concerned about the batch that I’d ordered in the winter. So they rooted a whole new batch for me for a scheduled summer delivery. I can now tell you that these plants can be bedded outdoors in both late winter and high summer in hardiness zone 5B/6A. I was a little surprised that each and every one of them handled the shock of being transferred from pot to earth in extreme temperature situations with no trouble whatsoever. They even started blooming as early as late winter the same year they were planted. What’s even more amazing is their ability to remain evergreen in frigid temperatures. Over the course of this past winter, which was notably harsh, these plants were, at various times, encased in ice, buried under two feet of snow, and exposed to single digit temperatures and subzero windchills. In addition to breezing through the brutal winter, these little guys survived a nasty vole infestation in my garden which persisted into mid autumn. While numerous, less hardy perennials succumbed to the dietary predilections of these pernicious pests, my primula population persevered. I’m pretty proud of my primroses. Alliteration notwithstanding, these tough little plants are beautiful and almost supernaturally hardy. Some of them were chewed to the ground by the voles in my garden, and they rebounded and are once again leafing out and setting buds. From the time I first planted my primula a. and primula v. in my garden, right through to the present, I have not lost one single individual. These little plants are simply incredible.
My primulas can tolerate full shade and full sun. Their preference, however, is partial shade. Fortunately, during the hottest days of summer, all of my primulas receive at least partial shade, and some are located in full shade.
These little plants are blooming powerhouses. They can bloom continuously from late winter/early spring right up to the beginning of summer. A few of mine even rebloomed in fall. The combination of their thick, tough green foliage and vibrant-hued blooms creates a most alluring vibe in the garden. All of my primulas are located at the front borders of their planting beds along my garden’s walking paths, which will soon be paved with limestone (so yeah, primrose paths it is). Their combination of diminutive size, gorgeous color and form, English cottage garden charm, and almost palpable “attitude” make primroses impossible for me to resist. These little pitbulls of the plant world are an indispensable part of my garden’s aesthetic.
Suggestions for planting primula a. and primula v. in late winter/early spring.
- Plant them as soon as you get them. Again, your local nursery will have primulas ready for retail purchase, and reputable online nurseries will ship them, at the correct planting time for your zone. In 5B/6A, that’s generally late winter/early spring. These primroses are good to go in the cold. As long as you can dig and work the soil in your garden, plant them. At the time of this writing, these plants are available at many garden centers and from many reputable online nurseries.
- Soil. When I first bedded my primulas, I again used the slightly acidic potting soil with the pre-mixed slow release fertilizer (N-P-K ratio of .10-.08-.06). I did nothing to amend either the soil’s pH or nutrient levels for the first year my primulas were in my garden. Now, however, I do use Espoma’s Plant-tone (N-P-K ratio of 5-3-3) to fertilize them. Their soil remains slightly acidic, so at this point, there’s no need for me to amend its pH levels. My primroses definitely like their soil to be moist and well-drained.
- Water. Primroses enjoy cool damp locations. It’s important to keep them watered, but definitely not soggy. Once they’re established, they become a bit more tolerant of dry spells, but not terribly so. Keep their soil moist, but again, not wet or soggy. If a primrose’s roots become waterlogged, the plant will quickly die.
- Pruning and/or deadheading. Yep. You’re going to want to do both. Even though these plants are really little and really close to the ground, and it’s a pain in the ass to get down to their level (at least it is for me), it is DEFINITELY worth your while to deadhead spent blooms and to prune back compromised foliage. This will keep your primulas looking green and healthy, and will encourage profuse and continuous blooming. And trust me, you’re gonna want these little guys to keep blooming.
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The Fiskars SoftGrip Bypass Pruner is perfect for pruning/deadheading/cutting back every one of the perennials on this list, plus virtually every perennial I’ve got in my garden. It’s got a 5/8″ cutting gape with more than enough power, and it’s incredibly sharp and beautifully machined. It’s absolutely perfect for making precise and delicate deadheading cuts and removing compromised foliage with surgical precision. I’ve got several different Fiskars garden cutting implements in my arsenal, including this one. I love these tools. Click the #advertisement link to order yours here, from Amazon.
The three photos below were taken on April 5th of this year. Each of these primulas, as is the case with almost every other primula a. and primula v. in my garden, is laden with flower buds. The plants have also recently been fertilized with Espoma’s excellent Plant-tone organic 5-3-3 fertilizer, so I’m expecting to see a green-up of the foliage as well as extremely vivid blooms. Once again, pruning back dead or dying leaves, and deadheading spent blooms throughout the spring will keep primulas healthy, green, and reblooming beautifully.
Well gang, if it’s still cold in your zone, but you’ve just absolutely got to plant something, you’re now good to go. All of these perennials are great performers, and you can stick them in the ground when frosty temps are still a thing in your garden. This is a good selection – there’s a great groundcover, a beautiful little gem for the front border, a colonizing ephemeral native wildflower, a gorgeous, sizable flowering evergreen, and a sprawling, old fashioned classic. Something for everyone. So get busy – buy your plants, dress warm, and start planting!
I’m staying inside. It’s cold out there.
Cheers, and Happy Gardening!
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Great suggestions! When you see these early bloomers coming up you know spring is here, even when you see them covered in snow!
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Thank you, Kevin. Glad you liked the suggestions. They’re definitely all tough plants that can handle a cold weather planting. And you’re right, they do look awfully pretty when it’s still cold and snowy outside! Thanks again!
These are great ideas even though frost doesn’t scare me. Though maybe that’s all this California sun gotten to my noggin’. I love your white variety of bleeding hearts. I have a grove growing of the magenta type!
Thank you, Tamara – glad you liked the suggestions and my white bleeding hearts! I love your attitude regarding frost. I feel the same way. My army of early bloomers is completely immune! I’d love to see pictures of your bleeding hearts – please feel free to share them. I’m planning on getting the original pink (magenta) variety in quantity for the next phase of my limestone planter/retaining wall sections. Thanks again!
The love of gardening is a seed once sown that never dies. Teaches you lots of patience, love and understanding nature. In return you get such pure pleasure and an environment of absolute delight.
Great article, everything you need to know is in this article. Such beautiful images too 🌸❤️🌸
You give lots of love to your plants and this is why you get such beautiful results….”they love you back”🌸❤️🌸
Thank you, Roxxy! I agree with your thoughts on gardening. It’s really an amazing way to get in touch with nature, as well as oneself. You’re absolutely right. And I’m so glad you found the information useful and pertinent. I do love those plants, and I tried to relay to readers exactly what worked best for me since planting and tending them. Thanks again!
You did good. I can’t believe you haven’t been gardening your whole life. Me, most of my life. My zone is seven and I’m praying we won’t have another freeze. I have an English garden next to the lake with all tall plants. I bought some more of the tall phlox to plant there. It blooms all through the summer and is my favorite.
Thank you, Everly – what a kind compliment! I love my tall phlox, as well. It’s so beautiful and tough. I hope you can sneak by the next few weeks without a freeze. We’ve got a cold Friday and Saturday on tap here with a couple of overnight freezes. Your English garden sounds beautiful. Please feel free to share pics. I’d really love to see it. Thanks again, Everly, for all of your kind thoughts and your interest. I really appreciate it.
Great article! I had pink bleeding hearts in my last garden, and I’ve always wanted to try Hellebores, but Condo living doesn’t have enough space! I’ll have to come see yours!!
Thanks, Bunny – I’m glad you liked the article. I love pink bleeding hearts, too. When I finish building my limestone perimeter planters, I’m going to plant some in the shady section. Hellebores are awesome. You can try one in a big pot on your deck. It should do ok if the pot is big enough. Thanks again, Bunny!
Thank you for these beautiful suggestions. Going to get some tomorrow.
I’m glad you like them. These really are excellent choices for cold weather planting in late winter and early spring. They’re all real beauties and they’re incredibly hardy.
You always give great information and easy to understand directions. Thanks
Thank you, Rick. I appreciate your kind thoughts. I’m glad it was good info and that it was clear and understandable. As always, thank you for your interest. It’s very much appreciated.